Journal & Topics Media Group

Cozy Up To France Aboard River Cruise

22-Passenger 'Deborah' Offers Plenty Of Stops Along Seine, Yvonne

By TODD WESSELL
Journal & Topics Travel Editor

Passengers on board the river barge Deborah relax on the top level of the vessel as it glides along the Seine River.

Off a ways, a small, dark green Volkswagen sits parked on a dry gravel road, its passenger side door appearing to be open.

With the tick of every second, our sleek vessel inches closer toward the vehicle, its front headlights and grill pointing in our direction. The sky is a deep bright blue as we bathe in the warm mid-day sunshine. The water of the Yvonne River in central France feels cool and refreshing having dipped our fingers in. The only sound is the purring of the riverbarge’s engine and the flutter of the cottonwood leaves along the waterway’s banks.

“Bonjour,” shouts the young female who was sitting in the car’s passenger seat as the Deborah leisurely glides by. A second “bonjour” comes from the male perched behind the wheel.

About two hours into our first full day of river cruising, the Deborah and its crew of six and 15 passengers already feels welcome. Just a few hours earlier the architecture, beauty and resourcefulness of 12th century France unveiled itself during a walking tour of the charming little town of Sens.

Magnificent stained glass window of Cathedrale St. Etienne in the charming village of Sens.

Our seven-day, six-night cruise on the Yvonne and the Seine rivers begins in Sens, a two-hour drive south from Paris. Water levels can, from time to time, dictate where cruises begin. This summer’s drought led us to embark on our journey in this river town, where the water levels are fine. Sens’ roots date back to pre-Roman times showcasing centuries later the transition from the Romanesque to the Gothic style of cathedral architecture. Make no mistake, while the Cathedral St.-Etienne in Sens is a remarkable example of Medieval construction and architecture, its interior is jaw-dropping. Spread throughout the church high above its stoned floors, huge stained glass windows allow sunlight to filter into the building’s otherwise dimmed hallways. The windows, in all of their colorful glory, depict biblical scenes including the Tree of Jesus. Marveling at them takes time and a bit of neck-stretching especially when searching for a recognizable scene.

Friday is market day in Sens as people flock to the circular structure that has a slight resemblance to a small arena. Displays of fish are spread atop shreds of ice. Chicken, beef and vegetables are set up along both sides of a dozen lengthy rows. Talkative locals are everywhere and are wowed as they search for bargains in anticipation of preparing that night’s family meals. Outside near St.-Etienne, a public square is full of vendors hawking everything from clothing to pots and pans. There are also many small stores, including where two-scoop ice cream cones can be purchased for a few Euros. In the center of the square, a musical stage is being set up for an evening of dancing and singing.

France Cruise, Inc.’s Deborah, which is operated by CroisiEurope

Deborah is the latest member of a fleet of France Cruises, Inc. river barges and boats operated by CroisiEurope. Launched in 2016, the vessel’s length is 125-feet and width 16-feet. Shiny blue and white are its exterior colors. At the front of Deborah, passengers can find comfort in an area of tables, chairs and umbrellas for shade. On top is an expansive viewing area full of lounge chairs. They along with the open air, warmth and sunshine serve as a frequent magnet for many on the cruise.

Interior gathering spot on the Deborah

Like any good thing, it’s what’s inside Deborah that makes it extra special. Each of its 11 clean and cozy cabins have water level window views, two comfortable beds, a bathroom with decent-size shower, storage space, reading lights, wi-fi and independent air-conditioning. Its maximum passenger capacity is 22 assuring an atmosphere of freedom and friendliness as everyone quickly gets to know one another. All cruises are tailored for comfort and connecting people from all parts of the globe who, in our case, spoke English very well. On this particular trip, traveling together were couples from Berlin, Brussels, Chicago, Hawaii, California, Australia, and a single man from London. Everyone got along very well.

On the main level of the Deborah, directly beneath the viewing area, is the barge’s largest single room full of blue cushiony seats and glass coffee tables. It serves as the gathering spot before and after the day’s scheduled activities. Here, passengers have time to socialize, sip coffee and tea in the morning and a specially-brewed cocktail upon return from the day’s excursion. When reboarded for lunch, two distinctive wines are featured daily. White uniformed crew members break out an assortment of cheeses for sampling. Sumptuous dinners are served nightly and a less formal breakfast every morning. Before entering the dining room, a small bar offers up soft or hard drinks. Delicacy appetizers precede the evening’s meal.

Along many miles of France’s canals and the Seine River are bicycle and walking trails.

The dress code for the Deborah is casual. Shorts are perfectly fine during warmer months and jeans year-round. For dinner, an upgrade in clothing is popular, but really there are no rules. Men and women should keep their ties and formal dresses at home. Gratuities are optional at week’s end. The preferred currency is the Euro.

Fountain showcases some of the fine French art.

For the next four days of our journey, now along the Seine River having connected with the Yvonne, plenty of time is allowed for stops in the villages of Moret Sur-Loing, Melun, and Evry. Moret-Sur-Loing is just a short van ride from the docked Deborah and in close proximity to the historical town of Provins. Located in the township of Champagne, it’s home to 300 separate stone houses and some ancient wooden structures, the oldest of which dates back to the 1200s. Completely surrounding Provins are centuries-old ramparts and towers each with tiny holes chiseled out of the solid stone so those inside the towers could see and fire arrows at the enemy. Provins was once France’s second capital city behind Paris, which lies only about 50 miles east. A total of 58 historical monuments are sprinkled throughout Provins.

One of the many amazing rooms inside the Chateau de Fontainebleau.

The next day of touring brings those on the Deborah to the village of Melun and the Palace of Fontainebleau with its opulent architecture, historical significance and wide open spaces, especially associated with its multi-tiered gardens, all of which are captivating to the eye and to the imagination. In its heyday, Fontainebleau was a home away from home for most of France’s kings for more than eight centuries. Originally, it served as a hunting lodge and convent during the reign of King Louis VII. The abbey was consecrated by Thomas Becket in 1169. As the centuries passed and France’s royalty lived and died, Fontainebleau’s 42,000 acres continued to steadily develop accented by its stunning and finely-shaped tree and floral gardens and stately buildings. Surrounding Fontainebleau is one of the most scenic wooded tracts in all of France.

North side exterior view of the Vaux-le-Vicomte chateau and gardens located west of Paris.

Beyond Melun and Fontainebleau were the village of Barbizon, where the artistic trend of painting “from nature” was born, and the sumptuous chateau Vaux-le-Vicomete lay in wait. The time leading up to these visits was spent relaxing, reading, sipping on wine or beer, and daydreaming. With every bend in the river, Paris drew nearer.

One of France’s most popular and stunning properties is the chateau and gardens of Vaux-le-Vicomte, which is visited now and then by flocks of birds.

The chateau and garden of Vaux-le-Viconte is a must-see on any extended visit to Paris. A 20-minute ride from the Deborah brings its passengers to one of France’s great masterpieces of the 17th century. Even though it’s more than 350 years old, its limestone, brick and slate surfaces seem as if they haven’t aged. Guarding the entryway to the chateau is a large statue of Hercules. Fontainebleau with its 82-acre, multi-level garden is a rich blend of geometry, mathematics and optical effects, which gives visitors a sense of order and symmetry.

Inside, the inspiration of its founder, Nicolas Fouquet, is revealed in stunning rooms literally fit for a king, all revolving around an Italian architectural flair, which at the time was very popular in France.

As the river barge Deborah makes its way to the center of Paris on the Seine River it passes by Notre Dame Cathedral where scaffolding has been set up to make major renovations to the ancient structure following a devastating fire earlier this year.

Later that day while the sun slowly sets in the west, Deborah, as it has for the previous five days leaves in its wake another French jewel. In this case, the village of Evry. Ahead lies the City of Lights. We purr past Notre Dame Cathedral, much of it surrounded by layers of scaffolding as repairs from a devastating fire earlier this year continue. Turning to the right around Notre Dame, we pass under several bridges. Along the Seine’s Left Bank thousands of people are out strolling and sitting along the water enjoying the blessings of a calm summer evening.

Finally, as the Deborah begins to slow, we see the illuminated Eiffel Tower. The millions of lights attached to it steel skeleton blink with regularity. The Deborah turns and docks. Our trip is over. Outside in plain view only yards away is the French replica of the Statue of Liberty. Like the Eiffel Tower, it, too, is aglow in light.

IF YOU GO

*   Before making arrangements, make sure your passport and identify card is updated.

  • Make sure you have a proper electronic charger that’s usable in France.
  • There is no smoking on the Deborah.
  • A tip for a more enjoyable visit is to arrive early in Paris and stay in a nearby hotel overnight before boarding.
  • Price to fly to Charles deGaulle Airport in Paris varies by time of year, but generally it’s about $900 round-trip.
  • Per person cost for seven day trip on Deborah with all meals, transfers and drinks included is about $3,200.
  • For more information, visit www.FranceCruises.com or call CroisiEurope at 1-800-768-7232.

 

 

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