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Tequila 101
Mexican Tourist Train Carries Thirsty Passengers Straight To The Good Stuff
All aboard the Tequila Express in Guadalajara, Mexico, en route to the heart of tequila country
By JOHN HANDLEY Special to the Journal & Topics Newspapers
GUADALAJARA, Mexico---Sipping a Margarita is the fun part of a trip south of the border. But tracking down the real story behind the booze in that drink is work. It's a tough job, but, as they say, somebody has to do it.
The most pleasant way to do the research is to buy a ticket on the Tequila Express, a tourist train that runs every weekend from Guadalajara to the town of Amatitan, nestled in the heart of tequila-producing country.
The upbeat blast of mariachi music greets passengers as they enter the railway station. This sets the tone for the entertaining trip that will follow.
A party atmosphere envelops the waiting room, even before a single shot of tequila has been swallowed. The full-day tour rolls from Mexico's second largest city out to fields of blue agave, the plant from which tequila is made. Along the way, the passengers are serenaded by mariachis and served samples of tequila as they relax in their seats.
After boarding, they have little time to settle in before the fun begins. The first drinks offered contain little alcohol. What look like 12-ounce cans of soft drinks actually are spiked with 5 percent tequila. The Charro Negro, a cola with a slight tequila flavor, is refreshing. Beer and soft drinks are available for those who haven't acquired a taste for the hard stuff.
Soon, though, full-strength tequila flows freely. Chips with sauce also are offered, but be warned that sauce in Mexico comes in two strengths---hot and hotter. Servers handing out shots of tequila are slowed only when the mariachis play in the aisles.
Mariachis, who trace their roots to this central part of Mexico in the state of Jalisco, dress as "charros" (Mexican cowboys) with silver-studded vests and wide-brimmed sombreros. Playing violins, trumpets, and guitars, they belt out songs---in Spanish, of course.
Few passengers look out the windows as the scenery flashes by, morphing from urban Guadalajara to the natural beauty of the countryside with hills and mountains in the distance. After one hour and 45 minutes, the train arrives in Amatitan and the passengers are bused to the Hacienda San Jose del Refugio and the Casa Herradura distillery.
Now comes Tequila 101, but the lesson turns out to be both visual and painless.
A distillery worker in traditional dress chops off the spiny leaves from a harvested blue agave plant, leaving a large round root he calls a "pineapple." These "pineapples" are cooked for about 36 hours. The resulting sweet agave syrup is fermented with the addition of yeast, converting the sugar to alcohol in 7 to 10 days. Finally, the liquid is distilled twice to complete the process.
This crystal-clear "blanco" tequila is ready to drink. But smoother tequila can be made by aging. It takes 60 days or more of aging in wood barrels to make "reposado" tequila and a year or more for "anejo." The best tequila is 100 percent agave, while "mixto" has to be at least 51 percent agave.
While tequila has been gaining popularity in the U.S. in recent years, it is nothing new. Spaniards liked it, too, and were the first to distill it when they arrived in Mexico in the early 1500's.
After drinking in all this knowledge, the tour members inspect the old part of the distillery (dating from 1870), watch a video about its history, and then head for a buffet lunch. This is true Mexican cuisine with plenty of tortillas and refried beans ("frijoles"). Especially tasty is the chicken flavored with a dark mole sauce that has a hint of chocolate sweetness.
Soon a fiesta roars to life on a nearby dance floor. Mariachis play, charros do rope tricks, folkloric dancers twirl in a Mexican ballet. Young women dancers in colorful skirts flash radiant smiles at their partners and the audience.
After the show, the train awaits for the return to Guadalajara. The mood going back is even more jovial, fueled no doubt by additional shots of Mexico's national drink. Some passengers even dance in the aisles when the mariachis play in their car.
But getting to the true heart of the tequila story requires even more research. That means a trip to the town of Tequila, which gave the liquor its name. Located some 35 miles from Guadalajara, it is easily reached on bus tours. Most tequila producers are within a 100-mile radius of Tequila.
Jose Cuervo, which claims to be the oldest tequila maker in Mexico and No. 1 in exports, has built the Mundo Cuervo visitor center near the main square in Tequila. The extensive facilities include tasting rooms (of course), a restaurant, outdoor theater, and gardens.
These forays into "Tequila Country" are just part of the lure of Guadalajara. From a visitor's perspective, this is a large, congested business-oriented city. But it can be used as a base for exploring outlying attractions.
Two popular day tours travel to Tlaquepaque and Lake Chapala.
Actually, Tlaquepaque is a suburb of Guadalajara with its own special charm. Known for its handicrafts, it offers more than 40 shops and markets. Pottery and blown glass are specialties. Don't miss the offbeat art in the Sergio Bustamante gallery.
Tlaquepaque is a low-key neighborhood ideal for browsing, shopping, and relaxing with a drink at El Parian, the central square. Street vendors sell everything from ice cream to fortunes told by a caged bird.
Lake Chapala, Mexico's largest lake with a length of 50 miles, shimmers some 30 miles from Guadalajara. Known for its mild climate, it has attracted thousands of U.S. retirees over the years.
From a distance, the water looks green, but up close it turns out to be just an expanse of floating water hyacinth close to shore.
Be sure to visit the lakeside village of Ajijic, an artist colony that is a work of art itself because many of its shops are painted in vivid shades of orange, pink, green, and blue.
Guadalajara is a convenient destination from Chicago since Mexicana Airlines flies nonstop there daily.
For more information online, check out www.tequilaexpress.com.mx (click on the American flag for English), www.tequilatours.com.mx, and www.visitmexico.com.