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If you think Taiwan is just like China, then you haven't dined at the funky Five-Dime Restaurant, visited the world's tallest Taipei 101 building (at least until Burj Dubai is completed), or toured the National Palace Museum. All of these places give Taiwan a personality that is uniquely its own. But there are still similarities. Think of it like the difference between the U.S. and Great Britain. Taiwan is small---the combined area of Maryland and Delaware, but the high steel and glass bamboo-like Taipei 101 stands 1,671 feet tall. And the rest of the landscape? Well outside the cities, verdant mountains often shroud themselves in mist and envelope Buddhist monasteries and chasms that dig deep into the earth. In-between are rice paddies, tea farms, Starbucks and 7-Elevens.

Taipei City And Vicinity

Though Taipei and its environs are quite modern, antiquities rule at the National Palace Museum. They are mostly treasures from the Forbidden City that Chang Kai-Chek handily helped himself to on his way out of the mainland. In case you don't know the history, Chang, one time Generalissimo of the Republic of China, and his KMT party lost to the communists in 1949. They were forced to escape to Taiwan. He didn't leave empty-handed. The museum has over 600,000 relics including dazzling baubles, jades and porcelains. There's an ivory, oval-shaped picnic basket, so delicately carved, it looks like lace. And would you believe a carved olive stone with eight people on a boat? You need a magnifying glass to appreciate this one.

Besides all his bling, Chang Kai-Chek has a Memorial Hall, located on Zhongshan Road, adjacent to the Peace Park. The stark white tribute to Chang, which resembles Beijing's Temple of Heaven, is just opposite the gleaming white gates. Flanking it are the National Theatre and the National Concert Hall. Taiwanese often practice their Tai Chi at these two classic Chinese structures. Quite impressive.

So is Madam Chang Kai-Chek's legacy, the Grand Hotel. Now this majestic pagoda-styled inn on the hilltop was styled after China's Forbidden City. It was built in 1952 to house visiting dignitaries. Walking through the red and gold lobby with its crimson pillars, stunning ceiling, marble dragon-carved balcony and dramatic staircase, one feels quite regal. All accommodations open to drop dead panoramas, but as far as the rooms themselves, they are pretty ordinary. The food and lodging at the Grand Formosa Regent and Grand Hyatt Taipei are more palatial.

Just as elegant, but uniquely Taiwanese, is the 270-year-old Lungshan Temple. Located in the southwest part of the city on Kuanzhou Street, it reeks of ritual. For example, it is bad luck if you don't enter from the right-the dragon mouth- and depart from the left-the tail end of the dangerous tiger.

The dragon's mouth, whose foggy breath smells of incense, opens to a courtyard that overflows with worshippers. Though I have no food --like the crackers, cookies, fruits and cereals that others bring to the god of education--I light an incense stick and bow to him in hopes of becoming smarter.

Nearby, numbered fortune sticks are piled in cylindrical holders. Visitors can use them, so I pick a stick and then throw two orange crescent-shaped pieces of wood. Both flat sides come up. A good sign. I pick the matching number fortune, which my guide reads and gushes about the good luck I will receive. The fortune is in Chinese, so I have to trust her.

The courtyard leads to the Main Hall. In the center sits the mercy goddess, Kuan-in. I crank my neck to ooh and aah over the swirling, seven-layered carved wooden ceiling and delicately chiseled balconied walls.

Outside and to the left of the temple is Herb Alley, a chockablock of stalls brimming with roots, leaves bulbs and teas. Taiwanese are big into herbal medicines. I try some bitter tea, which is supposed to make me healthy. I don't know about improving my well being, but until the pungent taste dissipates, my sucked-in cheeks give me a very gaunt look.

Both Taiwanese and Chinese are big into herbs and dumplings. After eating at the unpretentious and very popular Din Tai Fung Dumpling House, not far from Chang Kai-Chek's Memorial Hall, I think the Taiwanese have cornered the market on the latter. For about 10 bucks, I get so many delicious meat, seafood, and veggie filled dumplings, I feel like a stuffed dumpling when I leave.

Strangely, Chinese croissants don't come from China. For that, you must venture to Sansia, about 20k south of the capital. The sweet, crisp crusts are even made into ice cream cones.

Sansia is not just about sweets, though. It has revitalized its 100-year-old Japanese baroque-style buildings and filled them with boutiques, antique, soap maker and candy shops. Every weekend it is wall-to-wall people. Steam pours from the sausage cart alongside the amazing Zu Shih Temple. Architect and artist Li Mei Shui (1902-1983) designed it to be so exact, the building contains no nails. Carved columns are entwined with gold serpents. Delicate carvings, reliefs and black Buddhas are stunning. Legend has it that a monster tried to burn the Buddhas so they would become black monsters. The tables were turned and the monster became a Buddhist.

If you are really into temples, travel east from Taipei. Jioufen, an old mining town, perched on the side of a 1,929-foot mountain, has Shengming Temple as its crown. I never saw a temple like this in the mainland. Vivid, porcelain dragons, phoenixes and different scenes sit on its rooftop while skillfully, sculptured reliefs adorn the walls. Be forewarned. The 300-step ascent is like climbing to heaven. Crowded with people, kids, dogs and cats, the labyrinth of narrow alleyways, is rimmed with shops and food stalls that are heaped with sausages, stinky tofu, candies and ice cream.

Famous personalities like Jackie Chen and Ang Lee blanket the mask maker shop's walls. Ghost masks are a result of the artist's dreams and imagination. Some are downright scary while others are idioms, like a blank expression, nosey (lots of noses) and an ice cream cone face.

Wander off the main drag and you might find a couple posing for their wedding pictures. In Taiwan, couples get engaged, have their wedding pictures taken and then go about planning the wedding. We find such a couple posing atop a ledge. The bride is beautiful in her white dress, but as she steps off, her sneakers peak out.

Jioufen is also known for its smashing view of the sea and its teahouses. At dusk, from the veranda of the A-Mei Tea House Restaurant, we see the twinkling lights of the mountain shimmer and slide into the Pacific Ocean. In the background a calliope-like plays Beethoven's Fur Elise. Wondering where the sound is coming from, we look down and see a musical garbage truck collecting trash bags.

Taiwan has style. Even if you are headed for China, consider the island located just on the other side of the Taiwan Straits. And when in the 7-Eleven, buy a package of Hi-Chews. Addictive, they are kind of like Starburst candy but much more juicy and chewy.

Sample Of The Rest Of The Island

When in Taiwan, take some extra time to experience the countryside, indigenous peoples, sweeping landscapes and Kaohsiung City.

Sun Moon Lake

South of Taipei, sitting in the island's belly, is Sun Moon Lake. The island's largest lake is named that because its left side is crescent moon-shaped and its right side is circular and sun-like. It boasts gentle breezes and moderate temperatures. Calm waters reflect emerald mountains. You can hike, fish or take a cruise and see one of Chang Kai Chek's former homes.

Alishan National Forest Area

Located in central Taiwan, Alishan National Forest Area is accessible by bus ride or by train. The narrow gauge Alishan Forest Railway begins in the rice paddy lowlands, rises past hillside tea farms then reaches Alpine forests. Hike the trails where legend has it that the mountains are filled with spirits. If it is raining, you might explore the little hamlet where there are plenty of souvenir and noodle shops, a Starbucks, tea shops and of course, a 7-Eleven. Note that tea sampling can be never ending, so make sure you know the whereabouts of a restroom.

Kaohsiung City

Traveling about 300 km/h (186 mph), it takes about 90 minutes on the Taiwan High Speed Rail (THSR), which travels up to get from Taipei to Kaohsiung City. Though it has Asia's largest harbor and the new 2009 World Games stadium, the remains of the walled city and South Gate, now a World Heritage Site, or a Love River cruise are more popular tourist attractions.

Visiting subway stations is not my idea of a tourist destination, but the one on Formosa Blvd is really worth the trip. The outside looks like the pyramid at the Louvre. The subway ceiling has a colorful four-sectioned mural (water, plants, sky and rejuvenation), the "Dome of Life." Creator Italian Narcissis Qualiata says, "Please dream under my dome."

Stop by the Taiwan Coffee Shop to experience water chestnut Valhalla. Everything on the menu -- � soup, rice, fried, tea, flan and a tasty warm dessert bun with a paste filling is made from this starchy root.

Just outside of Kaohsiung City are the golden roofs, undulating greenery and 500 Buddhas of Fo Guang Shan Monastery. You can practice calligraphy or wander the temples and grounds for hours. Lumbini Garden, a tribute to Buddha's birthplace, is filled with chunky baby Buddhas. The slopping walk, bordered by the gods, leads to the Great Buddha Land where a giant gold Buddha shimmers at dusk.

Taroko National Park

Fly southeast from Taipei to Hualien and drive the short distance to visit this gorgeous gorge. Located on east side of the island, the steel-colored, marble-lined chasm swoops down to the slithering Liwu River. It is a hiker's paradise. Try to get guide Lin Hsien Chao to show you around. He uses American idioms to describe the canyon.

Hsien Village bustles with a Buddhist monastery that is chiseled out of the side of the mountain and a five-star hotel. The canyon is home to the Truko people (Taiwan has 13 such indigenous tribes.) Their craft shop is a good place to see traditional loom, bamboo and rattan basket weaving.

IF YOU GO

Taiwan Tourist Board:(415) 989-8677; website: http://www.go2taiwan.net.

If you fly China Air or EVA there is no charge for a stopover. Also there is a 3-star hotel deal for $79 per night for each of two nights.

Things To Know Before You Go

Drink bottled water only.

Many sights are not handicap accessible. Often there are a lot of stairs to navigate.

Ladies: Although western toilets exist, they are not always available. Most are squatters-that is a hole with places for your feet. This means you must be ready to do some deep knee bends. If you see toilet paper outside the toilet stall, grab it. It is a good idea to keep some TP or Kleenex in your purse. Try a foot massage, which also includes arms and back. They are popular and cheap.