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  • JOURNAL TRAVEL / MARCH 5-10, 2008
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    "El Arco," a stone arch representing land's end with the Sea of Cortez to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west, and one of Cabo San Lucas' many eye-popping scenes.

    Cabo

    Adventure Rules On Tip of Mexico's Breathtaking Baja

    By TODD WESSELL
    Journal Travel Editor

    Was that a scream of fear or a scream of delight?

    Someone or something in the distance was letting out a long, steady, high-pitched yelp that echoed off the walls of the Baja, California canyon we were gawking at. "Look at the hawks", said one wide-eyed boy eager to get going. He was pointing his right index finger skyward. Three large birds effortlessly banked left and right about 100-feet above our heads. "They look more like vultures," responded one of the adults.

    Helmets and gloves on, harnesses secure around our waists, our group of about half a dozen adventurists was all set. The only roadblock was our own fear. The sky was a cloudless, deep, gorgeous blue. The temperature stood at about 80. The desert scenery of the dry, dusty canyon and the hearty cactus and chaparral that dotted the landscape was breathtaking.

    The 3-1/2 hour adventure was our introduction to "monster zip-lining". One by one, each member of our group was pushed off a wooden station platform by a trained, confident guide from where we glided above the rocky terrain below. A small metal wheel that fit securely over the steel line is what kept us from splattering. Handles on each side of the wheel served as brakes. Just move them to the left and right to create friction and slow things down a bit.

    In all, we took on eight different zip line runs without a hitch. Some were short, others stretched as long as half a mile. On that longest run, our speed exceeded 50 miles per hour. Not bad for just a few hours of fun.

    As for the screams we heard earlier, they were shouts of joy as two zip liners, riding tandem, whisked along the cable from one end of the canyon to the other.

    And the birds? They were hawks, not buzzards.

    Cabo San Lucas, on the tip of the Baja Peninsula of Mexico, is quickly becoming a favorite spot for people anxious to get away from the chills and spills of wintry Chicagoland. New hotels are springing up everywhere. Restaurants are flourishing and spectacular golf courses, chiseled out of the desert panorama along the Sea of Cortez are as indescribable as they are expensive (as much as $300 per round).

    Our headquarters for the Thursday through Sunday trip to Cabo was the brand new Casa Dorada Resort & Spa. This 186-room all-suite resort is situated right on Medano Beach. The view from our fifth floor room was spectacular, especially in the morning when one or two huge cruise ships sit anchored about a mile away. Beyond that, the famous San Lucas stone arch, known by the locals as El Arco. The arch represents land's end with the Sea of Cortez to its east and the Pacific Ocean west.

    During the weekend of our stay at Casa Dorada, the finishing touches were being put on the resort's new 7,000 sq. ft. Saltwater Spa. This is where visitors can become absorbed in highly-therapeutic baths of mineral and saltwater to relieve those aches and pains so many of us are forced to endure. Beyond the hotel's front lobby sits the multi-level shapely pool surrounded by dozens of cushy lounges and stations where trained masseuses are happy to give you a neck or back rub under a white, cloth umbrella. The pool shouts with color with its bottom and sides coated in bright blue tiles. Off to the side, the gurgling of a circular whirlpool can be heard.

    Cabo San Lucas is situated at the southern tip of Baja. It's the second largest city on the peninsula and its most cosmopolitan and diverse. It's easy to get to Cabo‹as the region is commonly called. Regular flights, some non-stop, others with a two-hour layover in Phoenix, are available from O'Hare Airport. The Cabo Airport is undergoing expansion and improvements. Going through Customs takes only about 45 minutes to an hour. From the airport, the drive south to San Lucas on Mexican Hwy. 1 lasts about 35 minutes depending on traffic.

    For those who want to be on the go, there's tons of possibilities. Besides zip-lining, there's bungee jumping, shopping, golfing, world famous fishing, parasailing, and boating. For those intent on relaxing, there are few other places in the world that can provide the kind peace of quiet combined with the fantastic scenery and weather that Cabo offers.

    On the beach just outside Casa Dorada, small "water taxis" skip back and forth. The pilots all seem to know exactly what they're doing and where they're headed. For a meager $10 per person, nearly all water taxi drivers are happy to motor you out to the arch where, on certain occasions, you can get out and walk around on a smooth, sandy beach. Waves crash against nearby rocks hurling spray into the air. Sea Lions, perched on a large shaded boulder nearby, honk their approval.

    Cabo is also one of the best places in the world to whale watch during certain times of the year when the huge mammals swim down from the Arctic. They can be spotted by either boat or by helicopter. The Surfer Girl catamaran we took docks at the Los Cabos marina and offers sunset cruises and snorkel trips for about $65 per person. Private party trips can also be booked. Thirty minute helicopter rides are also available where passengers can get a view of the entire southern tip of Baja and view the thrilling, shadowy forms of whales in the sea below.

    Back at the Casa Dorada, users of the pool are treated like royalty by the well-trained friendly staff. Everyone speaks good English‹so important when ordering a Lemon drop Martini at the poolside bar or during dinner at the 12 Tribes beachside restaurant. The bartenders, mostly young men, are helpful and good conversationalists willing to reveal the best places to visit and the best deals.

    The 12 Tribes Restaurant features world-class cuisine. Its name is inspired by the 12 Tribes of Israel who "scattered upon all the face of the earth." Seating for up to 200 is available. With a cool breeze blowing in from the Sea of Cortez, I wondered if our hosts had actually planned the full, orange moon slowly rising above the horizon.

    For more information, contact:

    * Casa Dorada Los Cabos at 1-866-448-0151 or visit www.casadorada.com,

    *  Wild Canyon Adventures at 624-144-4433 or visit www.wildcanyon.com.mx. Zip line prices range from $76.50 per adult to $67.50 for children 8 to 10 years of age,

    * Questro Golf at 1-877-795-8727 or www.questro.com.mx.

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