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  • JOURNAL TRAVEL / FEBRUARY 20-25, 2008
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    Overlooking sparkling blue waters of some of the 300 miles of coastline in Door County, Wisconsin.

    Surrounded and Loving It

    With Water On Three Sides, Door County Offers Plenty To Do In Relaxed Atmosphere

    By MARY ALICE WENZL
    Special to the Journal

    Navigating the waters of Lake Michigan off Door County, Wisconsin in a kayak was an experience I didn't want to miss. The lake was glassy and smooth when we started out. Suddenly the swells began to pick up as Lake Michigan is known for quick changes. Our guide gestured for us to look to the south as the waves coming up from Chicago were gaining strength causing the undulation. Feeling excited or maybe it was a little apprehension‹I didn't want to flip over after all‹we thought that paying close attention to our instructor by paddling straight into the swells was a good idea.

    Our destination was Cave Point, 1,000 year-old caves carved out of the dolomite rocks of Door County Peninsula by Lake Michigan's water currents. Unfortunately for us, because of waves crashing into the walls of the caves, we had to stay a distance away so we wouldn't get into any trouble. But all was not lost as this kayak tour had the added benefit of a yoga class. Halfway through our excursion, we paddled to shore where a quiet beach awaited us. Instructor Kathy Navis led us through a sequence of Ashtanga (8-limbed) yoga poses that compliment kayaking after which we continued our adventure.

    Eighteen miles across at its widest on the southern end and less than two miles shore to shore at the northern tip, stunning vistas abound in Door County with Lake Michigan lying to the north and east and the Bay of Green Bay to the west of this finger-like peninsula. With over 300 miles of shoreline, it's hard to imagine that it takes just a little over an hour to drive from the southern county line to Northport at the northern tip of Door County Peninsula. It's only 75 miles on Hwy. 42 up the center of the county. With tons of sights to see, B&Bs to experience, shopping to be done, fish boils to satisfy one's gastronomic cravings, there is a myriad of things to do in Door County if you'd prefer a more leisurely pace. To fully experience this unique area of Wisconsin one definitely must stop to enjoy towns such as Egg Harbor, Bailey's Harbor, Fish Creek, and Sister Bay to name a few. As "they" say, "Explore the Door".

    Surrounded by water on three sides, it is believed that Door County has the most miles of shoreline of any county in the United States.

    With abundant whitefish populating Lake Michigan and being the main ingredient in a fish boil, everyone who travels to Door County should partake in one of these locally special dinners. Begun by the Scandinavian settlers of the region over 100 years ago, our group enjoyed this tasty meal at the White Gull Inn in Fish Creek. Before sitting down at the tables, we witnessed the "boil over" outside. Starting with a kettle of salted water boiling over a hot wood fire, the "boil master" places a steel basket filled with potatoes and onions into the cauldron. A few minutes later another basket with whitefish steaks is added and brought back to a rolling boil. At just the right time kerosene is tossed onto the fire causing a blaze which reaches over the top of the kettle. The water "boils over" the kettle's sides dousing the flames and carrying with it the fish oils that had risen to the top. The wonderful fish, potatoes and onions are then served with a generous helping of melted butter. At White Gull Inn from May through October, fish boils occur four days a week and winter fish boils are every Saturday at 6 p.m.

    Adding to the lure of the beautiful scenery are the many historic lighthouses guarding Door County's coastline. Cana Island Lighthouse in Baileys Harbor was one we were able to explore. Built in 1869 of Milwaukee "Cream Brick" this gleaming structure is comprised of a tower and keeper's home. There are times when it is necessary to wade through water to Cana Island but on our visit, water levels were low so we stayed dry. Cana Island Lighthouse is open for climbing two days a year to protect the Fresnel lens which still actively operates as a navigation aid under jurisdiction of the U.S. Coast Guard.

    Working up an appetite with all this activity, a picnic lunch at Orchard Country Winery & Market in Fish Creek was on the agenda. Picnicking under the shade of canopies in the orchards among the 6,000 tart cherry trees, we began with tart or sweet cherry juice, whichever was preferred, and smoked turkey sandwich wraps followed by, of course, yummy cherry pie. Montmorency tart cherries are freshly picked and packaged right at the orchard with morning dew drops still glistening. Some others end up as fruity wine such as "Cherry Blossom", jugs of tart cherry juice or jams, jellies and pie fillings and don't forget‹cherry pie.

    Owned and operated for 3+ decades by the Laudenbach family, Orchard Country is home to a winery‹open for tours‹market to shop for specialty items or cherry picking in the orchards.

    Even though the weather outside was rainy and chilly, we had a fun time inside at Peninsula Players Theatre in a Garden in Fish Creek. Lots of laughs ensued while watching "Unnecessary Farce" indoors. In existence since 1935, some well-known actors have and still do walk the stage at Peninsula Players Theatre, such as Harvey Korman, Sam Wanamaker, Stacy Keach and Ralph Waite.

    Situated on 16 forested acres along Green Bay's shores, this entertainment center is America's oldest professional resident summer theatre. Performances take place in an all-weather pavilion. Being a "resident theatre", actors are cast in more than one show for the season and considered "in residence". This encourages and enriches artistic growth in the camplike environment. With an internship program, eight to 10 college students participate each year in every facet of theatre from backstage to learning by working side-by-side with professionals. Peninsula Players Theatre is stunningly beautiful in its simple wood and iron architecture. There is nothing ornate. With the look and feel of the wood, beams and rustic style overall, the theatre is even more amazing because it was structured to bring the outside in. The walls slide open so theatergoers can appreciate the scenic splendor of the forested land surrounding the theater. Of course, the walls are opened only if weather permits.

    Did you ever see goats grazing on a roof? If you go to Al Johnson's Swedish Restaurant in Sister Bay, this is an everyday sight which you don't get anywhere else. This taste of Sweden is a unique experience and it all began in 1949 when Al opened "Al's Restaurant". Born in a tough Chicago neighborhood Al and his sister were sent every summer to Door County to pick cherries for 3 1/2 cents a pail. At the age of six his father sent him to Sweden to attend school for three years. He met his future wife, Ingert, who was born in Sweden and they married in 1959. Traveling back to Sweden the couple found decorating ideas for the restaurant and purchased several log buildings which were dismantled and shipped to the United States and reassembled like a giant Lincoln Log set by Scandinavian logsmiths to create the present-day restaurant. To add to the Swedish authenticity the roof of the restaurant was sodded and thus the goats were needed to keep the sod trimmed. From sandwiches served on Swedish rye bread called limpa to Swedish pancakes served with lingonberries, Al's is a delightful place to stop and enjoy the hospitality and a meal anytime of the day. Many Chicagoans are very familiar with Door County. After all, it's only about a 3-1/2 hour drive to enjoy the relaxing, laid back lifestyle of this travel destination.

    For more information, check out these websites: www.doorcounty.com; www.doorcountykayaktours.com; www.orchardcountry.com; www.peninsulaplayers.com; www.aljohnsons.com

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