Indy: Alive and Well

Canadian Treasure State Shines Through Sprawling Capital City

The Indiana State Capitol is located in downtown Indianapolis. Scene is looking west from Monument Circle.

The men are grayer, their rugged facial features reflective of their ages.

More than 60 years have passed since the end of World War II. Time has a way of eroding memories when allowed to. More than 1,000 Americans who served in the armed forces during the second world war die each day. That's about the same number of sailors who perished when the USS Indianapolis ship was sunk in the South Pacific during the final days of the war. Hundreds were victims of shark attacks.

Indianapolis has made sure it will never forget those who served and those who died.

Like a mini District of Columbia, Indiana's capital city unfurls every day its reverence for America's veterans. Monument Circle, the city's epicenter with its many shops, restaurants, businesses and hotels, represents the heart of Indianapolis. From there, the city comes alive with history, food, art, theater and, of course, vehicular speed.

If ever there was an American town that has re-made itself, one need look no further than Indianapolis. Once a worn down midwestern manufacturing city, Indianapolis in 25 short years has become a sparkling center of culture, business, education and recreation. Even though the entire metro area's population doesn't crest beyond 1.3 million, Indianapolis is home to the World Champion Colts football team, the National Basketball Association's Pacers, and a triple "A" baseball team. The Pacers and minor league Indianapolis Indians play out of new, modern facilities. The Colts will move into Lucas Oil Stadium in 2008 with its 63,000 seats and retractable roof. The RCA Dome, built in 1984 and home to Colts since they moved from Baltimore two decades ago, has become obsolete. It has a date with the wrecking ball. In Indianapolis, waiting for something to happen isn't an option.

From "ground zero", Monument Circle, any visitor to downtown Indianapolis can get almost anywhere easily on foot or bike. The sporting venues are located only a few blocks to the south. West along Market Street lies the Indiana State Capital. About half a mile beyond is the new Eiteljorg Museum of American Indians and Western Art. And literally only a few yards further lies White River, America's only urban state park. A stroll along the park's expansive promenade beside Central Canal is a goodie-filled treat. Among them are the NCAA Headquarters & NCAA Hall of Champions Museum, lots of greenspace, art sculptures, memorials to fallen soldiers, White River Gardens, and The Indianapolis Zoo. The Canal, refurbished in the 1980s then extended a decade later to its current 1-1/2 mile length, serves as a serene and colorful backdrop for concerts and other public events. During summer, gondolas and paddleboats glide up and down the waterway and joggers pound the pavement.

To the north, from the heart stretches the city's soul. Standing at attention in the core of Monument Circle is the Soldier's and Sailors' Monument, a 284-foot tall ornate edifice dedicated in 1902. With a resemblance to London's Trafalger Square, its height is only 22-feet shorter than the Statue of Liberty. The Monument was erected as a tribute to Hoosiers who served in the Revolutionary, Mexican-American and Civil wars. At the top stands Lady Liberty who, facing south, is symbolically welcoming home troops who served during the War Between the States. Tours of the Monument are free of charge. An observation deck can be reached by stairs or for $1 by elevator.

Sprawled out in front of the Monument paralleling Meridian Street stands Indiana War Memorial Plaza, a three block expanse of grand shrines. Included are the American Legion Mall, University Park, Central Library and the crown jewel, the Indiana War Memorial Building. The structure took nearly 40 years to build and sits on a city block elevated above the street and sidewalk. Six majestic columns are featured on each of the building's four sides. And on the south steps, the pro Patria bronze statue "for country" stands on a pink granite base reaching 24 feet into the air.

While downtown Indianapolis' street and pedestrian layout is primarily a grid, there are five diagonal streets, the most famous and popular being Massachusetts Avenue. Situated only a few blocks east of War Memorial Plaza, "Mass Ave." as the locals call it, is Indianapolis' snazzy arts and theater district. Five live stage theaters and four art galleries line the five block-long boulevard as do numerous boutiques and cozy restaurants each with a personality of its own. What was once a mosque has been converted into a popular theatrical hang-out where live shows are staged.

One of Indianapolis' most unique features is its network of overhead walkways that link much of the downtown area. Visitors can walk from Conseco Fieldhouse to the central business district and its bustling shopping centers to many of the area's 260 bars and restaurants without having to step outdoors. The walkways also connect downtown's many hotels with at least 92 additional redevelopment projects of all shapes, sizes and uses now in the planning or construction stages.

Numerous other fascinating and compelling stopping points are located throughout the region including Crown Hill Cemetery where gangster and Indianapolis native John Dillinger is buried, Connor Prairie, a unique history museum that brings to life what it was like to live in central Indiana in the late 19th century, and Hinkle Fieldhouse, part of Butler University where the basketball movie "Hoosiers" was filmed. The arena is the site of one of the greatest upsets in high school basketball history in a state where basketball is near religion.

From Chicago's Northwest suburbs, getting to Indianapolis is easy. Just take the Tri-State Tollway east/south to I-94 at the Illinois-Indiana border. Once you reach I-65, head south until you reach the capital city. The Meridian Street exit will lead you to the center of the city. Total travel time is about three hours. And remember, Indianapolis, in the true spirit of trying to stay ahead, is in the Eastern Time Zone. So don't be late.