Antwerp, Belgium Town Hall with the famous "Brabo With the Hnd of the Giant" in foreground.

Antwerp

One Of Europe's Most Invigorating Cities Situated In Area Known As Flanders

Invigorating, entertaining, always filled with diamonds, fashion, art, architecture, and atmosphere. That is Antwerp, emerging as one of the best destinations in Europe. Antwerp is in northern Belgium, the part they call Flanders. The people speak Flemish, which is really the same language as Dutch, plus French and English, which makes it super-easy for us American tourists.

Antwerp is one of the biggest ports in the world‹in all of Europe, only Rotterdam is bigger. It is very near to Brussels and Bruges, and not far from Amsterdam in Holland. The population is about 500,000, including the suburbs.

This writer had visited Antwerp for one day in the early '90s. It was a dark, rainy day, but my guide Paul was wonderful, and I knew I wanted to come back. This time I had a little more time, and I had another top-notch guide, Ariane, who told me that she admires Paul and that he is still guiding.

One of the things that drew me back was the architecture and art. As soon as I checked into my hotel and showered, I walked to the town square, There I was surrounded by awesomely beautiful grey buildings from the 1600s, bright pennants of medieval guilds, and cafes filled with people relaxing to the sound of swing music.

The Count Basie tunes were being played by an outdoor big band, and were part of Liberation Day celebrations, marking the end of World War II. This went on for several days, with people dancing to the music in the square. Free music is just one of the attractions.

I sat down and ordered a beer: Belgium is famous for beer, and it is excellent. A real Antwerp beer is DeKoninck (Of the King), which is served in a bowl-shaped glass. Drinking an amber-colored "Bolleke" is an Antwerp thing to do.

The weather was invigorating: maybe a little windier than Chicago‹you are not very far from the sea.

The town square includes a famous bronze statue of a Roman soldier named Brabo. A local myth is that he cut off the hand of a giant who demanded big tolls from the ships. The statue shows Brabo throwing the giant's hand: the myth says that Antwerp means "throw the hand".

It is a fun myth, and little chocolate candies shaped like a hand are sold in shops. But more likely Antwerp gets its name from "aan de werpen" (on the wharves) or "anda" (opposite) the "werpen" (waterway).

The next day my very nice guide Ariane took me on a fine walking tour of this fascinating, history-rich city, a Gallo-Roman settlement back in the 2nd century. She told me what some of the Flemish street names mean; for example, "Steen" (pronounced "stain") means Stone, and "Veemarkt" means Cattle Market. So many other names have to do with feeding people: there were famines in the city's history, and thus so many things revolve around eating. We walked through the red-light district (my request), which is not as large as Amsterdam's, contained to just a few blocks, and in a neighborhood that is rapidly gentrifying. We went to the house of the grand painter and diplomat Peter Paul Rubens, Antwerp's most famous citizen.

At the River Scheldt, with its huge ships flying colorful flags, I met another highly intelligent guide, a young man named Igor, who was named for the great composer Igor Stravinsky. We had lunch on the water at Zuiderterras ("South Terrace") with its imaginative contemporary architecture by Bob Van Reeth, which suggests a big ship.

Igor said that people who come to Antwerp love it, and frequently comment "I didn't know anything about it". He mentioned six reasons why people like Antwerp:

1. Rubens: "The ambassador of Antwerp, whose paintings are here in both museums and churches.

2. Fashion: This is a city of fashion, with boutiques, designers, the internationally influential school Flanders Fashion Institute, and the MOMU fashion museum.

3. Diamonds: 80% of the world's rough diamonds are handled in Antwerp.

At "Diamondland", a daily free tour at 11a.m. lets you see polishers and setters at work.

4. The water: the port, which stretches for miles.

5. Gastronomy: the food is splendid here.

6. The way of life: The relaxing atmosphere, with its cafés and restaurants.

True indeed, and I can add these: The Royal Museum of Fine Art; the mighty Steen Castle, now the National Maritime Museum; the Cathedral of Our Lady, a seven-aisled Gothic-style church from 1559, which has two great paintings by Rubens; the Saint Carolus Borromeo Church from the 1600s with its Rubens paintings, its wood carvings, and its Mary Chapel.

Add to this the Zurenborg district, a place for walking tours of splendid architecture of many styles including terrific Art Nouveau, and the Antwerp Zoo, right next to the train station, with 6,000 animals, one of the oldest and most renowned zoos in world. Plus plenty of clubs and music at night.

PLACES TO STAY: The Theater Hotel, very near to theaters, is centrally located with a bar, restaurant, sauna, and just a 20-minute walk to the town square. It is one of many three and four star hotels in central Antwerp.

GETTING THERE: American Airlines has a daily afternoon flight from Chicago to Brussels. Antwerp is just a short train ride away, and trains run continuously.

But just getting there this time turned into one of the best unexpected adventures on my trip. The Brussels flight was filled, so I took the evening American Airlines flight to Frankfurt, Germany. It arrives at 11:30 a.m., and at 1:30 p.m. a train right there in the airport takes you on a fine sightseeing tour directly to the center of Antwerp! Time for a bratwurst, and off you go.

The four-hour Frankfurt-Antwerp train ride took me on a very clean, modern train through rolling farmland, past modern windmills and Gothic bridges. It rolled over the Rhine, and I spotted the spires of the famed Cologne Cathedral! Ordering a bottle of water from my friendly waitress, I soon went through Aachen, the town where Charlemagne reigned way back in the 800s.

Soon I saw a valley and the charming Belgian countryside, before arriving on time in Antwerp Central station. I would recommend this train trip‹and Antwerp‹to anyone.

FOR MORE: See your travel agent, and go to www.visitbelgium.com.