Aerial view of bustling Fort Lauderdale, Fla. and the gentle waters of the Intracoastal waterway.

Jet In, Ship Out

Fort Lauderdale, 'Yachting Capital of the World', Offers Great Shopping, Lots Of Sun, Expanding Port Everglades

Happily for cruise passengers jetting in to Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport, their ship is just a hop, skip and a jump from baggage claim. On the two-mile ride to Port Everglades, trademark funnels of Princess, Carnival and other ships immediately come into view, and the magic of a cruise vacation begins.

Located in Broward County, Port Everglades is the world's second busiest cruise port (after Miami) and the only one in the nation next to a major airport. Aside from quick and easy transfers, the complex of 11 cruise terminals boasts more waiting area and air-conditioned baggage space than any other port. Future plans call for a 12th terminal in 2009 and a high-tech People Mover from airport to port.

Fast-growing Port Everglades, just north of Miami on the sun-kissed Gold Coast of southeast Florida, has doubled its cruise business in the past 15 years. In 2007 it expects to welcome more than 3.6 million passengers, many of whom will stay over in Fort Lauderdale to see the sights, enjoy world-class shopping, kick back at the beach, and just soak up the South Florida lifestyle.

Off the ship and on dry land, cruise travelers are never far from water here in the "Venice of America". From the Atlantic Ocean to the Everglades, more than 300 miles of navigable canals thread Greater Fort Lauderdale, and many tourist pleasures revolve around boat excursions‹even gondola rides‹along the New River and Intracoastal Waterway.

They also call Fort Lauderdale the "Yachting Capital of the World", lending an upscale aura to a city increasingly popular with affluent globetrotters. Marinas abound in this watery web of a city, a palmy, balmy place evocative of the good life. Drive along the highway, and you'll see signs that call out "Yacht Wear", "Yacht Brokerage", "Yacht Provisioning" and "Careers in Yachting".

If you don't have a yacht, orient yourself to the maze of waterways by hopping aboard the city's Water Taxi, which operates hourly from 11 stops, morning to night. Guides, full of gossip and local lore, point out the waterfront mansions of the rich and famous on Millionaires Row. The home of Oscar Mayer descendants, you learn, has a hot dog painted on the bottom of the swimming pool, and the doorbell plays a certain little jingle. (It was once the address of Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz. Andy Griffith and Johnny Weismuller owned homes on the same island.)

Asking prices for some properties approach $20 million, while even the simplest waterfront abodes fetch seven figures. At night, when the curtains are open and lights on, you can peek into the opulent interiors. Over-the-top yachts, a few with their own helicopters, also invite gawking.

Standard excursion boats, departing from downtown Fort Lauderdale, include the Carrie B paddle wheeler and Riverfront Cruises' sleek yacht. But the all-time tourist favorite is the Jungle Queen riverboat, a tradition for more than 60 years. A three-decker with fluted smokestacks, the Jungle Queen offers morning and afternoon sightseeing cruises to an island with alligators and exotic birds. The dinner cruise features an island feast (all-you-can eat barbecue ribs, chicken, and steamed shrimp) followed by a variety show.

Boarding for the Jungle Queen is at Bahia Mar Docks, opposite Fort Lauderdale Beach, one of the most fabled strands of sand in the world. Even if it's winter and too cool to swim, the beach is a slice of classic Florida that shouldn't be missed. Amid seagrapes and seagulls, folks walk up and down the curving brick-walk promenade that follows the signature "wave wall", a ribbon of white concrete outlined in fiber-optic blue. Separating the sand from the walkway, the low barrier also serves as an extended bench. There are joggers, bikers and rollerbladers, along with pedicabs and Segways.

Framed by rustling palms and beach umbrellas, the Atlantic shoreline, with its turquoise waters and rolling surf, is postcard-perfect. Since 1999 the non-profit Clean Beaches Council has awarded the beaches of Greater Fort Lauderdale its highest honor‹the Blue Wave Beach certification.

Across the busy boulevard are ice cream stands and souvenir/beachwear shops, plus sidewalk cafes custom-made for people-watching. Luxury hotels, like the new St. Regis and Hilton resorts, now overlook a beach once synonymous with wild college kids on spring break. In the works are a W hotel and two Trump hotel-condominium towers. Beach Place, a three-level, open-air mall attached to a Marriott Vacation Club high-rise, offers free stage entertainment most nights and hopping restaurant/bars like Hooter's, Sloppy Joe's and Sally O'Brien's Irish pub. Go a block or two inland and you'll find charming inns and apartment hotels in the Old Florida style.

If you've ever been on a swim team or consider yourself an Olympics or old-movies buff, something will catch your fancy at the International Swimming Hall of Fame, located a block from the beach. Just inside the museum door your greeted by a wax figure of Mark Spitz, chairman of the Hall's board, and a video recording his triumphs at the 1972 Summer Olympics in Munich. Also displayed are his Gold Medals from the 1968 Games in Mexico City and starting block used in Munich.

Of most interest among the collections of medals, trophies, swimsuits, magazine covers and yellow newspaper clippings are videos of Olympic-swimmer-turned-movie-star Johnny Weismuller (Tarzan in the 1930s and '40s and founding president of the Hall) and Esther Williams, remembered for her synchronized swimming scenes in splashy MGM productions.

In another video, Gertrude Ederle, the first woman to swim the English Channel, looks back at her 1926 feat, done in record time. Also remembered is Buster Crabbe, an Olympic swimmer who went on to star as Flash Gordon, among other roles.

From the beachfront district, hop a trolley or water taxi to Las Olas Boulevard, another Fort Lauderdale tourist magnet. With about 10 blocks of smart boutiques, palm-lined Las Olas ("the waves' in Spanish) is one of America's great shopping promenades. Mostly devoid of chain stores and restaurants, Fort Lauderdale's "Main Street" offers a relaxed, intimate atmosphere in a low-rise, village-style setting. Shops and galleries, some housed in stucco buildings with red-tile roofs, specialize in everything from fine jewelry and fashions to African art, dog accessories and rare cigars.

A cosmopolitan coterie of visitors from around the world takes in the chic Las Olas scene from ringside seats at the many outdoor eateries. On the terrace of Stork's Cafe, watch passengers board the antique Venetian gondola. Poled by a costumed gondolier, the sleek craft's 30-minute river/canal trip imparts a romantic touch of Italy. Another cozy option: A horse-drawn carriage ride along Las Olas Boulevard and side streets.

For a glimpse into Fort Lauderdale's history, you can tour the Stranahan House, on the New River just steps from Las Olas. The oldest structure in Broward County, dating from 1901, was the home of pioneer Frank Stranahan, who operated a ferry, bank, post office and trading post that served the Everglades' Seminole Indians. Follow the Riverwalk to Las Olas Riverfront, an outdoor mall with fun watering holes like Ugly Tuna Saloona, and cross the railroad tracks to Old Fort Lauderdale Village, a collection of historic buildings. The1905 New River Inn, a former hotel built of hollow concrete blocks, has exhibits and push-button recordings that highlight Seminole culture, Everglades ecology, the coming of the railroad, and early South Florida's real estate boom. In a shady, park-like setting, this idyllic enclave makes a good spot to relax on a bench and view the river traffic.

Nearby are such attractions as the Fort Lauderdale Art Museum, Broward Center for the Performing Arts and Museum of Discovery & Science, all part of downtown's Riverwalk Arts & Entertainment District.

Aside from Las Olas and Fort Lauderdale Beach boulevards, visitors will find plenty of other shopping venues. The Galleria at Fort Lauderdale, just five blocks from the Atlantic Ocean on East Sunrise Boulevard, is a sophisticated indoor mall anchored by Macy's, Dillard's, Nieman-Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. Its lavish Palm Court is one of the fanciest food courts anywhere. Sawgrass Mills, west of the city, has been described as the "monster of all outlet malls".

Bargain-hunters from diverse economic and cultural groups prowl among antiques, new merchandise and just plain junk at the indoor-outdoor Swap Shop, the South's largest flea market. Open 365 days a year and with 2,000 vendors, the sprawling bazaar includes a farmers' market, amusement park, mega-video arcade and drive-in movie theater.

With its multitude of attractions, easy-going ambience, and convenience for those arriving by air, it's not surprising that Fort Lauderdale is becoming the port of choice for more and more cruise travelers.

For information, contact the Greater Fort Lauderdale Convention & Visitors Bureau, (800) 22-SUNNY; www.sunny.org.