 Tourists climbing the steep stairs of the Pyramid of the Moon. |
Mexico City
Big, Bold & Beautiful
Story and photos by MARY ALICE WENZL
Special to the Journal & Topics Newspapers
Mexico City was a study in contrast one evening this past April. Beautiful tree-lined boulevards were punctuated with monuments and fountains as a procession of men clad only in their briefs marched up and down Paseo de la Reforma Avenue protesting a political issue.
Established on March 18, 1325 by the Mexica tribe, Mexico City has since become the capital of a sophisticated growing empire. With a population of an astonishing 23 million and approximately 4 million cars, the sprawling city is the capital of Mexico located in the Valley of Mexico.
Driving is challenging with traffic circle intersections and autos that seem to be going every "which way". Witnessing a protest march can only add to the driving dilemma. On the other hand, traveling by air to Mexico City was an easy non-stop 4-hour flight from O'Hare via Mexicana Airlines.
Founded in 1921, Mexicana is the fourth oldest commercial airline continually operating in the world. To my surprise, we were served breakfast/brunch‹a lost service on many airlines. Our choices were an omelet or delicious burrito which were not your typical "airline food". Being escorted through Mexicana's hangar and headquarters at the airport was a unique treat. We were able to see up close and personal some of the inner workings of a hangar and to enjoy some more of the airline's cuisine prepared by Chef Patricia Quintano.
With an extensive metro system of 11 lines and 175 stations, Mexico City's public transportation system serves approximately 4 million people every day. A number of the stations display Pre-Columbian artifacts and architecture that were discovered during the Metro's construction. The Metro does not extend outside of the limits of the Federal District so an extensive network of bus routes has been implemented. These are mostly managed by private companies, which are allowed to operate as long as they adhere to certain service quality standards.
Taxis are another issue. You need to be careful. Taxis have special license plates. The registration number starts with "L" for free-roaming taxis, and with "S" for site taxis (registered taxis based on a certain spot, called "sitios"). Site taxis are safer. The taxi license is usually displayed above the windshield. Check the photo of the driver on the license and make a point of looking at it. Look for the meter‹without it you may be ripped off. The site taxis are more expensive but if you're nervous, you will feel more secure using them. Another option is radio taxis, which can be called by phone. They are very reliable and safe but, again, a bit pricier. Risks are always greater at night so it's recommended to use radio taxis after dark.
Amazingly downtown Mexico City has been an urban area since the pre-Columbian 12th century, and the city is filled with historical buildings and landmarks from every era since. In the city there exist some 160 museums, 100-plus art galleries and many concert halls. Throughout the city you will see murals by the famous artist Diego Rivera who, with his wife Frida Kahlo, lived in a Mexico City suburb. Several of their homes, studios and collections are open for public viewing.
Staying at the 5-star Marquis Reforma Hotel and Spa in Mexico City, with its Art Deco style, was a classy, wonderful experience. Home to a 16,000 sq. ft. spa, a full service business center and two restaurants‹ and La Jolla and Cafe Royal‹the Marquis Reforma is located in the center of the financial and cultural district on Paseo de la Reforma Avenue. This wide avenue cuts diagonally across the city and was built on the orders of Emperor Maximilian in the 1860s, originally called "The Empress Avenue". With high-speed Internet access available in every room the Marquis Reforma is everything a business traveler could want. For that matter, if you're there for pleasure and relaxation, the spa is a wonderful respite from every day life. An atmosphere is created to help restore a sense of health, energy and well being with treatments of massage, aromatherapy, hydrotherapy and scrubs.
Enjoying lunch one day at a nearby Los Canarios Restaurant we munched on some unusual appetizers such as "eggs of ants", which were surprisingly very good‹just don't think about the name. This open-air restaurant was a beautiful pleasant spot late in the afternoon with the gentle breeze blowing and the canaries singing while we enjoyed a delicious meal. Los Canarios' Chef Max Covaliu came out to greet patrons and he told us about his time in Chicago where he studied medicine. He is a doctor but his first love is cooking. He became a physician to please his parents but now devotes his time to his true passion. A new Los Canarios restaurant will be opening in September at the Marquis Reforma Hotel.
A must-see while visiting Mexico City is the ancient city of Teotihuacan ("The City of the Gods" or "where men were converted into gods"). Teotihuacan is an archeological site encompassing the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon. The Teotihuacan culture existed from 200 BC to 700 AD during which time the pyramids were built from volcanic rock. It is possible, if one desires, to climb to the top of the pyramids‹the Pyramid of the Sun being the easier of the two. I say easier, but neither one of them is for the faint of heart. The steps are steep and narrow and I will admit I was "chicken".
The Pyramid of the Moon is located at the end of the Calle de los Muertos (Avenue of the Dead). Our tour guide, Humberto Villegas who is with Mexican Gray Line, explained some of the meaning behind the Pyramid of the Moon. The mythology of the moon is associated with the origin of life and the 28-day cycle of a woman, with women being very important to this culture. Based on the 13-month calendar, which the culture followed, multiplied by 28 days in each month equaled 364 days plus one day for celebration.
As one walks down the Avenue of the Dead, the Pyramid of the Sun is on the left with the Pyramid of the Moon behind you.
An important tradition at Teotihuacan is celebration of the vernal equinox. On March 21 of each year, thousands of people dressed in white gather at the Pyramids to absorb the energy of the sun as spring begins again.
I think one can learn many important life lessons from the people of Mexico because of their adherence to traditions that extend back for centuries.
Check out these websites for more information:
www.visitmexico.com
www.marquisreforma.com
www.mexicana.com
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