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    JOURNAL TRAVEL / JULY 11-16, 2007
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    Ascending the stones (top photo) of the Great Pyramid of the Yucatan Peninsula near Cancun, Mexico can be a daunting and tricky experience but also one that's exhilarating.

    Have No Fear

    From Swimming With The Sharks To Climbing Ancient Mayan Pyramids, Cancun Is Here

    Story and photos by TODD WESSELL
    Journal Travel Editor

    "Go!‹Go, Go! They're out there," blurted the wide-eyed, excited captain of our 30-ft. power boat. Through his sleek reflective sunglasses, he could easily point out our target only a few yards away.

    The three of us, snorkels protruding skyward, fins pointing outward and masks sealed against our cheeks, plunged off the side of the boat and into the cool waters of the Caribbean Sea. Instantly, the sound of people on board the boat and the bright blue sky overhead changed to a murky, momentarily ominous setting. The only sound was the gurgle of water and the heavy breathing through my snorkel.

    The hunt for shark was on.

    As funny as we may have looked, there were no dummies in our group of six. The shark we were scouting was the whale shark, a large, friendly fish that lopes along the surface and the floor of the ocean searching for its favorite food: crustacean plankton and small fishes such as sardines and anchovies. We weren't on his menu. Not even dessert.

    We were smack dab in the middle of one of the best spots in the world to swim with and marvel at the 30 to 40 foot whale shark. The warm, tropical waters off Mexico's Yucatan coast near Cancun provided a perfect location for us to spot the sharks flopping along the surface, stop the boat engines and slither in.

    Mexico's Cancun region, noted for its hotels, bikinis, margaritas, and romance, is also one of the premier ecological reserves of the Americas. Visitors are discovering that the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico, where Cancun is situated, is a sanctuary of natural wonders. There are jungles for hiking where hundreds of birds sing their high-pitched songs and lush plant life thrives. Deep inside the peninsula, gentle lakes serve as swimming ponds for the natives, who on Sunday, are lured there for a day of quality family time. The Mayan culture, which thrived in the region more than a thousand years ago, can be explored and experienced in thrilling fashion.

    At the height of the Mayan civilization, as many as 6,500 structures dotted the jungle south of Cancun. Structures included magnificent pyramids which served as temples for the highly religious people. Amazingly, only 5% of the 6,500 Mayan buildings have been uncovered leaving a treasure-trove of possibilities for archeologists and history buffs.

    A visit to Cancun, only a 3-1/2 hour flight from O'Hare Airport, can be a journey into two different worlds. For many, the allure of the white, sandy beaches and luxurious hotels is more than enough. For the more adventuresome, the other world is filled with exploration and excitement that includes kissing bottlenose dolphins, zip lining through the jungle, and rappelling into a awesome underground river where, once down, you drift on a rubber inner-tube marveling at the wonders in all directions.

    Cancun, located in Mexico's easternmost state, Quintana Roo, is a city based almost entirely on tourism. Development began in 1970 growing rapidly over the next three decades. Today, there are nearly 150 hotels, 28,000 rooms and 400 restaurants, most of which are situated along the main road, Boulevard Kukulcan. Among the world class hotels are the Hyatt Regency, Park Royal Piramides and the Ritz Carlton. There are also nine top flight golf courses, two of which lie within the Hotel Zone of Cancun. Of course, Spanish is spoken by everyone, but so, for the most part, English. The peso is the preferred currency, but no one will turn away the dollar. The exchange rate is currently about 10 pesos to one dollar. Cancun is busy, orderly and clean. It's also somewhat pricey as most resort towns are. Everyone we came in contact with was very friendly.

    The "world" we chose for our three day stay was the one of adventure with our base hotel the fabulous Ritz. Swimming with the whale shark was a highlight having located the gentle creature within seconds of our splash off the boat deck. We gazed as the fish glided along its merry way, its mouth wide open sucking in its never ending meal. He paid no attention to his gallery of admirers. After several plunges, the last of which continued for about 15 minutes, our finned friend disappeared into the distance.

    Our first day in the Yucatan was filled with swimming, snorkeling and getting to know a pair of happy-go-lucky dolphins. With our life jackets tight and secure as we floated in a still lagoon and our hearts pacing, the snouts of the two michevious characters suddenly popped up out of nowhere. Their trainers, performing all kinds of gyrations, instructed the mammals to first slowly swim from person to person. This introduction allowed us to touch and pet the smooth skin of the dolphins and to form a kind of bond that let everyone know that fun, not danger, lies ahead.

    A few moments later, the dolphins were swimming at a ferocious pace between the six of us. Then, with another wave of a handler's hand, they were off to the races, surging underwater and out of view and then thrusting out of the lagoon 20 feet into the air flipping 360 degrees and back into the water. The highlight of the close encounter came when our new pals, without hesitation, planted kisses on each of us one at a time. Some dancing was also mingled in as one by one, we clasped the dolphin's two fins followed by a few seconds of the Rumba. At the end of each dance and each kiss, a tasty fish was tossed into the mouth‹of the obedient dolphin.

    From that aquatic experience, the next day found us in the Mayan jungle about a two-hour drive from Cancun. This was a day of exploration where the dazzling landscape can be enjoyed and an opportunity to learn about the people of this land‹both past and present‹unfolds. In and around the Mayan village of Coba, stoned ruins stand in remarkably good condition. Coming upon the Rain God's Temple, the 79-ft. tall edifice represents the purist in Mayan architecture. It looks like something out of a movie where the sharp-angled slope of the temple stretches skyward and at the top, wide-winged black crows circle about. Its construction a millennium ago was anything but haphazard. One side faces the west where the sun sets. The other side faces east where the sun rises. The Maya people worshipped 13 gods and none was more important than the sun god. The shape of a circle is considered holy. Throughout the park land that consists of Coba, ceremonial Mayan roads link spots where tourists can gawk at ruins of various shapes and sizes. The roads can be traversed by walking or bicycles with seating room for two people can be hailed and enjoyed as the driver takes you where you want to go.

    A visit to Coba must include the Great Pyramid, known locally as Nohol Mul. It's the tallest pyramid in Yucatan at 138-feet and is a wonder to look at from ground level. Anyone can climb the pyramid's boulder-like stairs, but beware. It's not easy to do and be careful about looking back because the ascend is steep. Fortunately, a few years ago, a rope was put in place to provide comfort and safety not only for those going up, but mainly for going down.

    Another place not to miss in Coba is the ball game arena where ancient Mayas competed in a ritual that was meant to bring good fortune to the community. Unfortunately for the winner, at the end of the contest, he was killed, which was considered an honor as he passed into the afterlife.

    All around Coba, opportunities abound to enjoy and learn. Scattered throughout the Yucatan region are cenotes, which are incredibly beautiful underground rivers where people can access by rappelling from a ground level entrance. The entrance is basically a hole in the ground rigged with ropes and pulleys that allow takers‹even without rappelling experience‹to lower themselves into the cool waters of the river 40 feet below. Once perched on an inner tube, the stunning experience becomes more enjoyable as tiny, harmless fish swim by and beams of light from above blast their rays onto the darkened rocky walls about 30 feet away. To get out, a line is lowered and with four strong men above pulling, you're lifted out of the water feet and arms outstretched. It all takes about 30 seconds to complete.

    Another stirring experience that should be tried by anyone between the ages of 15 and 70, is zip lining. We did this following a 30 minute hike through the thick jungle that brought us upon an amazingly simple set up on the side of a big rock. There, we were each fitted with a helmet and harness that would be used to strap us to a strong line that could accommodate weight of up to 200 pounds. We were also given a three-foot long piece of wood that resembled a small cane with a hook-like curve at one end. That was our brake, our guide told us. Don't use it until you get near the end. Then, pull down on the brake, which is hooked around the line above you. That will slow you down to hopefully a gentle landing.

    His instructions were perfect. The zip line ride kicked off with a kick off from the big rock. The 30 second journey was amazing as we picked up speed skimming above a small lake below. Moments earlier, our guide laughed when he said that living in the lake were caymans and if we fall in, we better swim fast. Isn't a cayman a baby crocodile? I thought. Good thing that while I was zipping, thoughts of caymans had mercilessly escaped my mind.

    Back in Cancun, not participating in the pleasures offered by the Ritz Carlton would have been sacrilegious. Its shapely pool sits near the center of the hotel's two massive wings. It features a waterfall and shallow, warm water. Only a few yards away is the outdoor cocktail lounge where one can enjoy a margarita, martini or daiquiri day or night to the sounds of the ocean crashing against the beach.

    The Ritz provides exemplary service and six restaurants including the Casitas. Located on the beach, the Casitas offers service in 16 individual tikis where couples can dine in privacy or groups of eight can enjoy each others company. White sea-through curtains cover the sides of the tent-like tikis allowing in the fresh ocean breeze and the sounds of the water. Small sparkling white lights implanted on the underside of the table illuminates the special setting.

    Despite what you may have thought, Cancun is not just a resort city by the sea. It's a spot where the best of two worlds‹one that offers the amenities of the present, the other the intrigue and adventure of the past‹can be absorbed. It's also a setting where experiences like "hunting" for shark and rappelling into an underground river are inspirational and exhilarating, not something to be feared.

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