Cutting through the placid waters of the Great Salt Lake in a kayak was an "other worldly" experience on a recent trip to Ogden, Utah. As we gazed out over the immense and beautiful Great Salt Lake before leaving the shore of Antelope Island in our kayaks, we wondered why the surface of the water was black. Well, we found out it was thousands and thousands (probably more like millions) of brine flies. These minuscule flies didn't bother us at all as we coursed through the water to get out into the lake. They were really a source of amazement.

Once we got out on the open water, the beauty of the lake and its surroundings was something to behold. Great Salt Lake is 75 miles long by 28 miles wide with a maximum depth of 33 feet, which all varies greatly because of seasonal evaporation and precipitation. Water flows into the lake from four rivers carrying along 2.2 million tons of minerals each year. Because the Great Salt Lake has no outlet, water leaves only through evaporation and what is left behind are high concentrations of minerals. Salinity levels range between 4 and 28 percent compared to the ocean at 3 percent. The salt level is too high to support fish and most other aquatic creatures, but brine shrimp, brine flies and several types of algae thrive. The brine shrimp and flies tolerate the high salt content and feed on algae and are the primary food source for millions of migrating birds along the Pacific Flyway. Nestled between the 100-mile long Watasch Mountain Range and the Great Salt Lake in Weber County, Ogden, Utah is less than 40 miles from Salt Lake City.

Like their predecessors, the Ute Native American tribes of hundreds of years ago, mountain men and trappers were drawn to the area in the 1820s because of the freshwater rivers, fish, fowl and game. Fort Buenaventura, the first permanent Anglo settlement in the area was completed in 1845. As the fur trade diminished, frontier families and members of the Mormon religion fleeing persecution in the Midwest replaced trappers. In 1847, the Mormons purchased the fort in order to bring all land within the area under their control, creating the city that would eventually become Ogden. One can enjoy year-round activities and attractions at Fort Buenaventura such as Mountain Man Rendezvous, a historic fort and farms, a trading post, on-site camping, hiking trails, bird watching and more.

The railroad gave the area recognition when the "golden spike" was driven into the ground at Promontory Point linking the Central Pacific (California funded) and Union Pacific (federally funded) railroads on May 10, 1869. Spurred by financial rewards for building track, and lacking instructions from Congress, the two railroad companies graded rail bed past each other for 250 miles. By this time they were running out of money. The decision was made to join tracks and give each other track rights thus creating the transcontinental railroad.

Being the hub of the transcontinental railroad for more than 50 years, Ogden has a rich and lively railroad history. People from the west would go through Ogden to get just about anywhere else in the country. Weber County's largest city is home to the historic Union Station, which now houses four museums, Union Station Natural History Museum, Browning Firearms Museum, Browning-Kimball Car Museum and the Utah State Railroad Museum. Union Station is frequently used for meetings, banquets, weddings, receptions and performances. Situated at one end of historic 25th Street, Union Station is also quarters for two art galleries making this an all round great place to visit while in Ogden. The station is staffed by volunteers, the oldest being a 95-year-old railroad retiree. The present station was built in 1924, replacing the Victorian-style depot built 20 years after the driving of the Golden Spike.

Historic 25th Street has a rough past with underground bars, gangsters and prostitution. The term "red light district" came from the story that a railroad worker would hang his red light outside of a "house of ill repute" to let the train boss know where he was. The present day 25th Street is a fun, one-of-a-kind street with a refreshingly independent spirit. Up and down the street with its beautiful mountain vistas, one can enjoy many unique dining experiences, eclectic shops and boutiques, art and antique galleries. Fast food franchises don't exist on this street. Hands-on owners, whose pride shines through, run the many unique shops and restaurants from one end of 25th Street to the other.

One fun spot to stop for a beer and/or some food is the Roosters 25th Street Brewery with a selection of over 25 unique beers such as Bee's Knees Honey Wheat and Mom's Oatmeal Chocolate Chip ale. A complete menu with selections such as Gorgonzola Ale soup and Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb is available to satisfy everyone's taste. With an outdoor patio featuring weekly summer barbecues and monthly live entertainment, Roosters is a lively creative place to visit.

Of course, being in Utah there is always skiing to occupy one's time. Since we were there in June, the ski season was pretty much over. But not for everyone. Taking the gondola up to the lodge at Snowbasin, we encountered a "diehard" skier going up for one last run. With no snow at the 6,000 foot elevation of the lodge, he had to continue higher on foot. We later saw the path the skier made traversing the side of the mountain that had the snow he obviously loved.

Snowbasin, a Sun Valley Resort, first opened in 1940. With a summit elevation of 9,350 feet, Snowbasin was the venue for the Men's and Women's 2002 Olympic Winter Games downhill, super G, combined and Paralypic events. Located 33 miles from Salt Lake City and 17 miles from Ogden, Snowbasin is an easy-to-get-to destination with the completion of the Snowbasin Road in the year 2000.

If your interest is golf, Wolf Creek Resort might be the answer. While enjoying 18 holes of golf at Wolf Creek, one can take in panoramic views of the Wasatch Mountains, Pineview Reservoir and Ogden Valley.

With its mountainous beauty and small city feel, Ogden is a wonderful getaway during any season of the year.

For more information about the area, check out these websites: www.greatsaltlakekayak.com; www.theunionstation.org; www.historic25.com" www.snowbasin.com.

Also, the Ogden Convention & Visitors Bureau at their toll-free information number, 1-877-TO-OGDEN and their website www.ogden.travel.