It is dusk. An arch of lights ‹ the bridge that connects the U.S. and Canada ‹ twinkles in the distance. The myriad of emerald polka dots that weave between two nations below in the St. Lawrence River are the 1000 Islands.

Yes, this is the region of salad dressing fame. The story goes that over a century ago, George Boldt, owner of the Waldorf-Astoria, was cruising the area. While preparing lunch, his chef, Oscar Tschirky, was short on ingredients and improvised the dressing ‹ a little sweet relish, some mayonnaise, some tomato puree and whatever else he could find. It was an instant hit.

Actually, the area and the dressing are a misnomer. Someone doesn't know how to count. There are 1,864 islands scattered across a 50-mile stretch between upstate New York and Ontario. Some isles are mere rocks or only large enough to accommodate rickety fishing shacks, while others are the setting for castles, lighthouses and wildlife.

Most tourists come, do a quick cruise, maybe visit the Antique Boat Museum, the Boldt Castle and move on. The area deserves more scrutiny than that. Kayaking is one possibility.

A day-long kayak trip to the Ivy League Islands starts with basic instructions.

"Use the 'C' stroke and you can turn on a dime," says guide Nick Vienneau.

Well maybe my other three kayaking partners can, but my turn takes the width of the river. Soon we are off on our six-mile journey past 21 isles plus 80 rocky shoals and islets. Under bridges, across the open water and toward the sky bridge. Larger boats often leave us to gently rock and roll in their wake. Sandy beaches and granite cliffs border the clear water.

During lunch on Georgina Island, Nick relates that during prohibition, Americans came to the Canadian side for booze. Fisherman and farmers made fortunes running hootch from Canada and cigarettes from the U.S. The construction of the five bridges that connect the two countries ‹ one is U.S., one International and three Canadian ‹ made the rum-running less profitable. The area eventually turned upscale, so many fisherman and farmers sold their islands for big bucks.

The kayak trip from the U.S. side gives me another perspective. The paddle begins at Grass Point State Park near Clayton. After passing a lonely looking B & B on Occident Island, we stop at Rock Island. A rusty shipwreck lays half out of the water and islets with old fishing shacks surround it. Rock Island, only accessible by kayak or small boat, is now a popular picnic destination.

Leaving the island and making our way across the open water, the sky turns a nasty gray. It is surprising how much my paddling skills improve when it is raining.

Even with the rain, the area is so beautiful, who wants to eat inside? At Kring State Park, Captain John Evans cooks dinner that slides down ‹ BLTs for appetizers, salad with 1000 Island dressing, of course, corn with butter, potatoes with butter and fish fried in butter. Dessert is French toast soaked in what else? butter and topped with maple syrup and Jack Daniels.

After this typical shore dinner, it is difficult to move. The only way to see more of the landscape is to take the ever-popular Uncle Sam's Sunset Cruise.

"This cruise was our summer outing when I was a child. Part of our heritage (Canadian) is to be with nature. That is why 1000 Islands are so popular," my fellow traveler, Shelagh McNally, tells me.

The boat winds past the narrow Wanderer's Channel. In the 1800s some of these islands sold for as little as $1 each. Extending from Alexandria Bay to the Thousand Islands International Bridge, on the American side of the river, is Millionaire's Row. Famous entrepreneurs like the Macys, the Kelloggs and the Pullmans summered here in the early 1900s. Farther along is the secluded Deer Island. Owned by Yale's Skull and Crossbones Club, only members are permitted to disembark. It is closely guarded.

A multiplicity of lifestyles ‹ from huts to castles ‹ has existed on the river. George Boldt built his castle on the heart-shaped, Heart Island in Alexander Bay. Its 365 windows and 365 hearts were his way of saying that he loved of his wife, Louisa, every day of the year. The 120-room, 65-bedroom house, with its many spires and tunnels, was to be her Valentine's Day gift. Louise died before it was completed. Boldt abandoned its construction. It is said he never returned to the island. Tourists flock to see the castle. An Arc de Triomphe look-alike graces the entrance gate. The imposing, stone structure that sits in the water is the powerhouse. A separate children's house, where the family lived while the castle was being built, has a theater and two bowling alleys - one for each of his very privileged children. George deposited his mother-in-law in a house on a small islet you can see from the castle. Smart man.

A shuttle service to the castle runs from the Boldt Yacht House in Clayton. Check out wooden antique boats at its museum. They conjure images of the F. Scott Fitzgerald era ‹ the captain, dressed in white and sporting a blue captain's hat, shuttling Kate Hepburn-type ladies wearing wide-brimmed hats to an island picnic.

The waterway has been more than just a place for summer interludes. Shipwrecks buried in its waters attest to that. Kingston, Ontario, where Lake Ontario meets the St. Lawrence River, was strategic. Fort Henry was built to protect this area, where Americans and Brits constantly squabbled during and after the War of 1812.

Today, the fort is a living history site where little kids can take part in a military parade. Touring the fort gives one a sense of what 19th century army life was like. Actually, an officer's life was quite pleasant. But, enlisted men had meager rations. Five of the 10 shillings a day they were paid went to pay for uniforms and maintenance. Modern Kingston is a pleasant place with funky stores and boutiques with names like Namaste and Sultan's Bazaar and lots of restaurants like Chez Piggy.

A good place to rest after a long day of kayaking and island hopping is the 100-year-old Sleepy Hollow B & B in Ganonoque (pronounced Ganan-a-kway). Comfortable rooms and a yummy breakfast like Eggs Benedict or Belgium waffles will have you paddling like mad to work off those calories.

IF YOU GO

The season is basically from the Saturday before Mother's day to the second week of October.

Thousand Islands International Tourism Council, (800) 8 ISLAND (847-5263); website: www.visit1000islands.com

The Sleep Hollow B & B tel: (613) 382-4377 or 866-426-7422; website: www.sleepyhollowbb.ca

1000 Islands Kayaking Company, (613) 329-6265; www.1000ikc.com

T.I. Adventures, Clayton, NY, (315) 686-2500, website: www.tiadventures.com

Shore Dinner: www.stlawrenceriverfishingcharters.com/dinner