I had to do it fast, my visit to the ancient cities that form the cradle of Japanese culture. When business brought me to Osaka, there was little time for making tour arrangements, but Kyoto and Nara are close to Osaka and it was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit them both. Together, they contain many of Japan's oldest and most beautiful temples and World Heritage Sites.

After I arrived at the new Kansai International Airport, which spreads incredibly across a man-made island in Osaka Bay, I took an airport bus. I expected to be dropped at my hotel, but I wound up at a mid-city bus station. I'd been told that few Japanese speak English and for a moment, I panicked. But Osaka is Japan's second largest city and it bustles day and night. Among the throng are black-suited businessmen who rush around purposefully carrying brief cases and talking into cell phones. One of those young businessmen must have noticed my confusion. In perfect English, he asked whether he could direct me.

Saying that my hotel was too far to walk, he carried my suitcase to a taxi and told the driver where I was going. It was an unexpected and appreciated welcome.

In the luxurious confines of The Imperial Hotel, the staff was proficient or close to proficient in English and I felt at ease. The hotel has a frequent shuttle to the train station in central Osaka, so with the help of the concierge and a map, it wasn't hard to find my way around. When I needed a taxi, I showed the driver a piece of paper with the address written on it.

I spent two days in Osaka, fitting in visits to a few of its most famous sites. In a stunning new building, the Osaka Museum of History contains dramatic, brightly colored displays depicting Japanese life through the centuries. It's a good introduction to an exotic history so different from our western tradition.

The 7-story Osaka Castle is just down the street from the museum. Built in 1583 and surrounded by a wide moat, it looks impregnable. Nevertheless, it was besieged and taken by Shogun warriors only 30 years after it was built. Further damaged by later assaults, it was reconstructed in 1931, this time in concrete instead of stone. It's still impressive as it stands on its hilltop in the middle of the city.

If you're interested, as I am, in ceramics - in pottery, porcelain, stoneware or clay pots - go to Osaka's Museum of Oriental Ceramics. Mostly consisting of a huge private collection donated to the city, the museum uses a sophisticated technology to show each piece in uncluttered simplicity. I'll never forget one large, pale celadon vase inlaid with white chrysanthemums. Made in the 12th century, it still has such a perfect glaze that it seems to be lit from within. (But then, I like that sort of thing.)

Osaka has a healthy nightlife, many good restaurants, the National Bunraku Theatre (elaborate puppet shows popular since the 17th century), the famous Temma Wholesale Food Market and on Oimatsu-Dori Street, galleries and shops are full of antiques as well as bargain souvenirs. But I was bound for the ancient capitals.

By my third day in Japan, I was ready to hit Kyoto ‹ a 30-minute trip on the JR railroad. It seemed simple: bus to the station; inquire from Information; buy a round trip ticket (a pass if you're staying longer in Japan) ‹ and go. Ah, but I had to find the right platform in this huge station where most signs are in Japanese lettering. I stopped a uniformed guard, showed him my ticket, and he pointed me in the right direction. Platform located, I went up the stairs where a crowd of commuters was assembled. A voice making indecipherable announcements came over the loudspeaker and people around me looked concerned. Then they all went downstairs again. I followed them and asked another guard who pointed to another set of stairs. I boarded a train, but I was uneasy until I noticed a student carrying a book that had an English title. He was delighted to be asked for help and he told me that the first train had been delayed. I was now on a local instead of an express. He instructed me to get off and take the next train in order to reach Kyoto sooner. I had no idea where I was, but I was due to meet a guide at 10:00, so I followed the student's good advice.

Hajime Hirooka, "Johnnie Hillwalker," was waiting with a group of English-speaking tourists. He collected his 2000 yen (about $15) from each of us and we took off into Kyoto's winding streets. This is a city with 12 centuries of history, over 2000 temples and at least a dozen World Heritage Sites. In fact, out of respect for its significance, Kyoto was spared from destruction by American bombs during World War II. Johnnie took us to Higashi-Honganji, large, side-by-side Buddhist temples. We left our shoes outside the door and sat down on the floor.

Our guide fingered his wooden prayer beads as he gave us some local history and explained Japan's complicated religious beliefs. Apparently, Buddhism came to Japan in the 8th century, but never took the place of the existing Shintoism. Today versions of both religions are practiced, sometimes simultaneously.

Exploring small streets and back alleys, we passed many shrines that were placed in front of the houses. Sometimes workshops faced the street and we went in to watch craftsmen making pottery, painting delicate designs on teacups or gluing painted paper scenes on the wooden bones of fans. In Sho-Seien Garden, we fed crackers to greedy carp whose mouths were as big as a fist. The pond they inhabited reflected the blue of a bright autumn day (mid-November in Japan) when the foliage was orange and the temperature was warm.

Our 4-hour tour ended at a crossroads where Johnnie pointed out different directions and presented everybody with a hand drawn map. I knew there were significant treasures in Kyoto and though I appreciated seeing a Kyoto I'd never have found without Johnnie, I wanted to see what the city is famous for. He said that the Kiyomizu Temple was the most visited tourist attraction in all Japan, "most recommendable to see," and it wasn't far away. I struck out at once. And got lost at once. Not a soul in sight. I retraced my steps as two well-dressed, pleasant looking ladies came around a corner.

"Sumimasen, Kiyomisu," said I. (My Japanese vocabulary consisted of "yes, no, thank you and ‹ please.") We all smiled and bowed our heads. (Think of Bill Murray in "Lost in Translation.") After more smiling, bowing and pointing, they were truly happy to set me right ‹ and I was truly grateful.

The pedestrian-crowded street was long and steep, lined with shops and restaurants that have been catering to tourists for centuries. Rising majestically above the trees at the top of the hill, I could see the temple's bright red pagoda. Japanese families, groups of school children and visitors from all over the world crowded the space. A black-robed Buddhist monk chanted as he paced the terrace. And from the high veranda that surrounds the temple, I was rewarded with a famous view of city and wooded countryside.

Turning right at the bottom of the temple steps, I walked along a flowery path to Maruyama Park, famous for its springtime cherry blossoms. Here I found Yasaka Shrine, which is dedicated to the Shinto god of medicine and a very popular place in Kyoto. It's also known as Gion-san because of its proximity to the city's Gion quarter, the scene of the film, "Memoirs of a Geisha." Here, narrow streets have changed since the 1940s period of the movie, but the district is recognizable.

There are shops, teahouses and theaters and I caught a glimpse of a young girl (I hope she was a maiko - an apprentice geisha) wearing a silk kimono and obi and tottering along on traditional Geisha platform shoes, perhaps on her way to an evening entertainment. I would have loved to stop at a teahouse for dinner, but finding the train station seemed the better course of action. By now my feet were hurting, though I felt intrepid, proud that I'd discovered as much of this wonderful old city as I had on my own ‹ thanks to the courteous kindness of perfect strangers.

On the next day, I discovered Japan's "Goodwill Guides." These students, housewives and retirees are registered volunteers who offer free local tours in English and other languages. The only requirement is that you pay for their travel, admission fees and meals. I met the charming Mr. Ohta (whose English improved as the day wore on) in the stately Imperial lobby and I stopped worrying about finding my way as we explored the highlights of Nara.

This was the first capital of Japan, established in 710. Only 75 years later, the capital was moved to Kyoto where it remained for a thousand years. But that three-quarters of a century was a very productive period for Nara and because Nara is smaller than Kyoto, the old temples are easier to find. Many of the most important are in huge, scenic Nara Park where more than 1000 small, tame deer wander freely. They are shameless beggars and visitors love to feed them.

The most impressive sight in Nara Park is the 8th century Great Buddha. Cast in bronze and plated in gold, the sitting Buddha is 53 feet high. He raises his right hand serenely, signifying, "Do not be afraid." He lost his head though, in a long ago earthquake and twice again by fire. The present statue is housed in the Todaiji, which is both a National Treasure and a World Heritage Site. Consecrated in 752, the building was damaged and burned several times. Its last reconstruction was in the 18th century. Even at only 2/3 of its original size, it is still the largest wooden building in the world.

Also in the park is Kofukuji Temple. Among the remaining structures in the temple complex is a 5-story pagoda that was rebuilt in 1426, an exact replica of the original and one of the most photographed icons in Japan.

My favorite temple in Nara is not a temple, but a Shinto shrine ‹ the red lacquered Kasuga Taisha where hundreds of stone lanterns line the wooded paths leading to these buildings and hundreds of bronze lanterns hang from their eaves. We visited on a festival day when parents bring children aged 3, 5 and 7 to be blessed. The children, dressed in traditional Japanese garb, are delightful. And so are the camera-toting parents, who wear their fashionable best for the occasion.

I wish I could be in Japan today. Those world famous cherry blossoms explode into gorgeous bloom throughout the cities and countryside during the month of April.

For information

Japan National Tourist Office: www.jnto.go.jp

Imperial Hotel: www.imperialhotel.co.jp

Goodwill Guides: ask at Tourist Information at airport and in cities; hotel concierges

Hillwalker Tour: web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/people/h-s-love/