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    JOURNAL TRAVEL / FEBRUARY 1-6, 2006
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    D.C.'s Neighbor

    Just Outside Nation's Capital, Alexandria, Va. Full Of Surprises, History Dating Back To 1749

    By ED LOWE
    Special to the Journal & Topics Newspapers

    Our national capital is Mecca for visitors from all over the world. Its primary purpose is the business of government. And there are museums, attractions and events going on in Washington D.C. all the time. Despite our many visits to D.C., we've never really spent time seeing some of the surrounding communities. That was our mistake.

    Alexandria's Masonic Memorial towers over the city's skyline. Photo by Lois A. Lowe

    On a recent trip, we stayed in Alexandria, a unique town connected to D.C. by expressways and by the Metrorail system, yet with a distinct and colorful character and history of its own. Alexandria predates the District of Columbia. In fact, at the time the district was formed, a portion of the city of Alexandria was ceded to the Federal Government (later to be deannexed) and was to form part of the capital. Our stay in Alexandria was planned to provide us access to the attractions of D.C. while at the same time having the advantages of this very manageable city and its sites of historic interest, its restaurants and excellent hotels.

    Alexandria is proud of its distinctive colonial era history. In 1749 a young surveyor was involved in the planning of the City of Alexandria. His name: George Washington. Later, it was in one of the taverns that tactics used in the French and Indian Wars were discussed by Washington when he was involved in his first military actions. George Washington stayed in the city and used it as an urban base while he was constructing his Mount Vernon estate only eight miles away. During its construction and for years afterward, he owned a town house and frequently dined in Gadsby's Tavern, a property that is being maintained and is open to public tours. He was a member of the local Masonic Lodge and a monument has been constructed as a reminder of that affiliation, and he worshipped in Christ Church where he bought a pew. His name plate and signature are preserved on a silver plaque nailed to that pew.

    In this same church, another historic figure also worshipped and owned a pew. Robert Edward Lee who led the Confederate Army also lived in Alexandria and numerous members of the Lee family took up residence in the town. The churchyard is still being used for burials and the headstones are a link to the historic past of the City.

    Technically, Alexandria is located on what's called "the fall line" of the Potomac River. This is the point on the river where tall-masted ocean going vessels could no longer sail upstream. And it was at this point on the area rivers that many of the towns and cities of the Chesapeake were established. Its harbor was once an active port for the shipping of tobacco and for the importation of African slaves as well as the importation of manufactured products from England. Today, it is filled with brightly colored excursion vessels. Nearby is an artists' gallery known as "The Torpedo Factory." In fact, torpedoes were once manufactured here for use by the submarine service, and the building was recycled to accommodate artists of every sort who have small galleries and shops inside.

    From the Torpedo Factory, it's a short walk to the 1752 Carlyle House which was fully restored in 1970. Carlyle was a crafty Scottish merchant who amassed a total of six plantations. British General Braddock stayed in the house while leading the army fighting the French and Indian Wars. The solid brick house has two fronts, one facing the harbor and the opposite the street.

    Because of his wealth, Carlyle was one of the men who encouraged the revolt against the crown. It is said that the root cause of the Revolutionary War was the need to find ways to pay for the French and Indian War. Though he died in 1780 and never saw the completion of the revolution, Carlyle is considered one of the patriots who helped establish our government. He was, in fact, one of three signers of what are called the "Fairfax Resolves" which laid the foundation for the Declaration of Independence. The other signers were George Washington and George Mason.

    It's only a few blocks from the Carlyle House to Gadsby's Tavern. The Tavern, which in colonial times housed seamen, travelers, merchants and slave traders was also a haven in which men could discuss the affairs of state and trade the latest news from the other colonies. In fact, one small private room was used by Washington and LaFayette as a meeting room to discuss strategy used in the war for independence. In the Tavern's ballroom, our first five presidents held their inaugural balls.

    The Fendall-Lee House is yet another of Alexandria's historical points of interest. Revolutionary War hero and signer of the Declaration of Independence, Lighthorse Harry Lee sold the lot to his cousin, Philip Richard Fendall. Fendall constructed a large house on the site. Across the street, Lighthorse Harry Lee built his own home which is not open to the public. Lee was the father of Confederate General Robert E. Lee who grew up in that house. There are an estimated 60,000 descendents of Lighthorse Harry Lee still living in the United States. In the 1850s, the Fendall-Lee house was remodeled, and the furnishings on display reflect that era of decorative arts and furniture. Finally, after 118 years and 37 members of the Lee family had lived there, in 1903 the Lee-Fendall house was sold to outside owners.

    It was in 1937 that it was purchased by labor leader John L. Lewis who lived there until his death. Lewis was the founder, in the 1930s of the first industrial union, the United Mine Workers. He was instrumental in forming the confederation of industrial unions known as the CIO.

    Alexandria is an easy city to navigate. For a one dollar fare, a city bus runs from Market Square along King Street and makes most of the historic sites readily accessible to tourists. The Convention Bureau has arranged a multiple admission (for a fee of $9) called a Tricorn Pass which will allow entry to The Carlyle House, GadsbyŚs Tavern and the Lee-Fendall House. In each of them docents and guides will happily explain the events that took place and set them in their historical context. There are unique shops and restaurants along the cobblestone streets of the Old Town area.

    At the other end of King Street is the Washington Masonic Memorial and nearby is a Metro station which will get you into the center of the District in about 20 minutes. In addition, Alexandria is only two Metro stops from Ronald Reagan National Airport. Our stay at the Embassy Suites Hotel, directly across from the King Street Metro stop and a half block from the DASH bus line made access to everything only a few steps from the hotel.

    Visiting Alexandria was an eye-opening experience. It allowed us to put the nation's capital into the context of the people who live and work there. Washington doesn't have to be exclusively about seeing the impressive Capitol or the Museums along the National Mall. Alexandria is an alternative destination; a pleasant and historically significant area filled with restaurants, galleries, antique shops and some of the finest dining available along the East Coast.

    Resources:

    www.FunSide.com

    www.alexchamber.com 1-800-338-9119

    Embassy Suites Hotel: www.embassysuites.com 1-800-EMBASSY