Couples, holding hands, slowly stroll by peeking through shop windows while occasionally glancing at each other out of the corners of their eyes. A group of four women, on an afternoon shopping spree as their cruise ship lays anchored about a mile away, engage in a lively round of laughter and chatter. A young man, clasping a bottled water and wearing a light-colored t-shirt, seems to know exactly where he's going as he walks briskly along the tree-lined street curb.

Swimmer wades into warm, clear waters of the Caribbean at Grand Case Beach Club in the northeast corner of St. Martin.

"Hey, Buckeye," yells a young man, around 30ish, as I walk past him across the street. I look around and notice he and three others clenching bottles of beer as they partake in some afternoon people watching. His comment was in reference to the scarlet and gray Ohio State Buckeye cap I had on my head. Wearing some sort of sun protection on the Caribbean island of St. Martin is highly recommended. Why not an Ohio State cap if one is an Ohio State fan? I reasoned. My beer drinking friend seemed to like that.

While the chances are fairly good that you have heard of St. Martin, beyond that, your intimate knowledge of this splendid little island may be a bit fuzzy. Geographically, St. Martin is slightly southeast of the three Virgin Islands of St. Thomas, St. Croix and St. John. That means it's warm, but not too hot, year 'round. Constant Caribbean breezes normally keep temperatures in the low to mid 80s during days and cooler at nights. Like the Virgin Islands, St. Martin is a popular stop for cruise ships that regularly bring in mostly Americans for a day of sightseeing and shopping. And like its cousins to the northwest, St. Martin is breaking out of its cocoon, having embarked on a program of controlled redevelopment, in particular in and around its largest city, Philipsburg.

But beyond those similarities, St. Martin truly has a heart and soul of its own. Its dual personality‹if you will‹blends the distinct cultures of The Netherlands with France in a tropical setting that anyone from the world would find enchanting and refreshing.

Unlike practically all other Caribbean islands that are nationalities unto their own or protectorates of European countries or America, St. Martin is kind of like two countries rolled into one. The northern half of the island is French, home to such villages as the capital city of Marigot, Grand Case, Anse Marcel and St. Jean. To the south is the Dutch Side with Philipsburg and Saunders and home to Princess Juliana International Airport. The two "sides" are, in every real sense, part of their mother countries in Europe. They are, however, in may ways, very independent.

St. Martin is the smallest island in the world ever to have been partitioned between two different nations. St. Martin, as the French spell it, and St. Maarten, as recognized by the Dutch, has been shared by these two European nations in a spirit of mutual friendship and cordiality for nearly four centuries. And with that, each side has retained much of its own national culture and distinctiveness giving visitors and islanders the opportunity to experience two settings‹and people‹for the price of one. The French Side‹or Partie Francaise‹is a less-populated region with more rugged terrain, secluded beaches and lavish accommodations. The Dutch Side is more cosmopolitan, busier, and an area where people can find more things to do such as visit lively night spots and enjoy a larger selection of dining experiences.

My four-day stay on the island found me at the charming Grand Case Beach Club. The Village of Grand Case itself is nestled in the northeast corner of St. Martin, about a 45-minute drive from Philipsburg and Princess Juliana Airport. To get to the French Side, visitors glide along a narrow north-south roadway, at times able to sneak glimpses of the magnificent blue waters of the Caribbean Sea on the left and the lush green mountainous terrain to the right. The roadway is lined with tall grasses, pink flowers, an occasional palm tree and lots of wild Tamirind trees.

The total population of St. Martin currently hovers around 80,000, up from about 20,000 two decades ago. Authorities on the Dutch Side are determined never to let the population exceed 50,000 in order to retain its island, non-congested allure. Currently, 45,000 live on the Dutch Side.

Once in Grand Case, despite its attitude of laid-backness, there's more to do than what may at first meet the eye. For one thing, the beach at the Grand Case Beach Club is superb. While it's nothing like the gigantic public beaches of, say, Florida, Grand Case's beach is clean, plenty big for a morning stroll, and the nicest, softest sand you'll ever sink your toes into. And it's conveniently situated only a few steps from the small resort's Sunset Cafe. Waiters can easily set up a cushioned lounge chair and umbrella and bring you a cold rink when the desire strikes.

Only a short ride or walk from the Beach Club lies the Village with its wide array of restaurant offerings some refer to as the "Gourmet Capital of the Caribbean." Restaurant Row features about 35 offerings to choose from including places like Fishpot, L'Escapade, Alabama, and Blue Martini. You can find everything from fine French dining, to settings were you literally sit on tables plucked in the sand only feet from the lapping waters of Caribbean.

Back at the Grand Case Beach Club, stunning sunsets are almost a nightly occurrence. Earlier on, catamarans and powerboats can be seen crossing the horizon. And at night, if you're lucky, you can actually watch stars shoot across the dark sky.

Other forms of recreation include snorkeling and boating. Equipment can be rented at the Beach Club. Located about a 20-minute ride from the resort is Plantation Mount Vernon, an interactive 17th Century replica coffee, cotton, tobacco plantation which depicts what life was like on St. Martin more than 200 years ago.

For those interested in visiting neighboring islands, St. Martin is only a short distance from Anguilla and St. Barth's. A daily ferry boat leaves St. Martin bound for Anguilla every 30 minutes from 8 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. at a cost of $20 person. To visit St. Barth's, the ferry cost of $57 per person.

Another most fascinating experience is a day trip to the northeast section of the island and Orient Beach with its many restaurants and seaside shacks that sell everything from nick-knacks to t-shirts. This world-famous beach also has a corner reserved for nude bathing.

Nearby are condominiums and a few hotels with many more planned. A special thrill for those desiring a little more adventure, is a short boat ride to ilet pinel, a small island just off Orient Beach where sunbathing, swimming, snorkeling and dining are available. We ate a tasty seafood lunch at a table literally straddling the 85 degree water. Nearby, huge lobsters, just recently snared, bob inside a steel cage. The boat ride from Orient Beach to ilet pinel takes only about 8 minutes and costs just $5.

Back in Philipsburg, there's plenty of activity whether it be along Front Street or the Boardwalk, a newly-developed retail center located between Front Street and the beach. And for those having the hankering to roll the dice, there are no less than five casinos in Philipsburg, many lining Front Street.

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