Story and photos by TODD WESSELL
Journal Travel Editor
As we rode the ribbon of highway that links Cabo San Lucas with Todos Santos on the southern tip of Baja California, what we saw were two never-ending seas. To our left was the blue Pacific Ocean that continued for as long as one's imagination allows. To our right, was a sea of green Saguaro cacti, each one spreading its wings skyward along a landscape of light brown but beautiful looking dessert.

With the spectacular backdrop of the Sea of Cortez in Baja California, golfers tee off at El Dorado Golf Course located on the peninsula's southern tip.
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I've often wondered what Baja California was like. A friend from Texas told me once about its fantastic fishing where enthusiasts swarm to hook marlin and yellowfin. Beyond that, however, I knew nothing about the area. Do the locals welcome strangers? Are prices affordable? Are there creature comforts or is the area generally undeveloped and poor?
The answers to my questions were fast in coming as we disembarked our non-stop flight from O'Hare Airport at San Jose del Cabos Airport.
Baja California is a 1,000 mile sliver of land that juts from the U.S.-Mexican border south of San Diego into the Pacific Ocean. The southern half of the peninsula where I visited, is a land of tall vegetation-covered peaks which gradually slope toward the Sea of Cortez to the east and Pacific Ocean to the west. Much of its landscape resembles Arizona where during the summer, temperatures can reach 110 degrees. During other times of the year, conditions are comfortable with temperatures regularly reaching 80.
La Paz is the capital city of Baja California Sur, which is the southern half of the peninsula. Among its most populated communities are San Jose del Cabo and Cabos San Lucas, each with approximately 60,000 people. The entire region's population is only 150,000.
There are many contrasts in Los Cabos. On a street corner in Todos Santos, a charming community on the Pacific where much of the recent film "Troy" was filmed, Felipe's Restaurant stands where cool drinks and fresh strawberries are sold. A few miles south in the more robust town of Cabos San Lucas, the young, single crowd gathers at "The Office", a noisy hopping restaurant/bar situated right on the beach.
Development of condominiums and hotels and resorts has picked up in recent years at what soon could become a furious pace. Americans primarily and Canadians to a much less degree, have discovered this playground where the sun shines on average 350 days a year.
All along the coastline new resorts are springing up. One of the newest, Marquis los Cabos, is located about halfway between San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas and about 30 minutes from the airport. Highway 1 provides the main connection between communities and resorts along the coastline. It is in good condition along a route filled with beautiful scenery against an arid backdrop. Also along Rte. 1 from San Jose and San Lucas are seven pristine golf courses carved out of the rugged terrain and designed by some of the biggest names in golf such as Nicklaus and Robert Trent Jones II. To play these courses, especially in the high winter season, is not cheap: in the $220 range.
As for the Marquis los Cabos, its 237 rooms all feature beautiful views of the Sea of Cortez. The property includes 36 swimming pools, a 36-ft. waterfall, a spacious spa, and plenty of beach.
For a quiet more relaxed setting, San Jose and Todos Santos are two communities that are laid back and for the more romantically inclined. Rumor has it that the rock group, "The Eagles" wrote their hit "Hotel California" in Hotel California located in San Jose.
San Lucas, with its gorgeous rock formations off the coastline, is busier with more restaurants, a large marina, and even a good size shopping mall. Cruise ships port on a regular basis in San Lucas.

Numerous small shops like this one in Todos Santos, located in the far southern part of Baja California, offer shirts, blankets, jewelry and other locally produced items for sale at reasonable prices.
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Besides golfing, sunbathing, swimming and sportfishing, there's plenty more throughout the Los Cabos region. More than 800 species of marine life attract snorklers and scuba divers. There's also horseback riding, whale watching tours, sunset cruises, mountain biking, hiking and parasailing.
For fishermen, the most popular trophy is the marlin. Charter boats around 35-ft. in length, can be rented for about $350 for an eight hour day, $200 for a half day.
Shoppers can also find plenty of options. Throughout every town are small shops where locally made products such as colorful blankets and jewelry can be purchased. U.S. dollars and pesos are equally accepted. Beware, however, of paying a little more in dollars especially if you're expecting change back. The most recent exchange rate is abnout 11 pesos to every dollar.
To get around, taxis are available, but they're rather expensive. Drivers also have to watch out for cows crossing roads moseying literally out of nowhere. The cheapest and most reliable means of transportation is bus. Bus stops are located in front of most hotels and resorts. Also, resorts offer guests other transportation options as well.
For the historical minded, the Mission de Santa Rosa, founded in 1723, is centrally located in Todos Santos. There's also the Mission de San Jose, whose roots date back to 1748, located in that community.
Restaurants abound with choices varying from Thai cuisine to Japanese‹and of course, Mexican.
But perhaps the most enjoyable feature of southern Baja is the expansive beach that offers fine, light brown sand that one can sink his or her feet into. On a regular basis, with bright blue sky overhead, one can spend the day listening to literally nothing but the rhythmic sound of waves crashing against the shore.
American Airlines offers regular non-stop service from O'Hare to Los Cabos. A Round trip ticket costs around $600.
For information about Marquis Los Cabos, call 877-238-9399 or visit www.marquisloscabos.com.
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