By ED LOWE
Special to the Journal & Topics Newspapers
It was on the ten o'clock news and weather report. Freezing rain followed by sleet with snow by morning. Time to think about some other place.
We tried Curacao, that island in the southern Caribbean that promises 80 degree weather all year long. Warm breezes, cool drinks, some of the best diving and snorkeling in the world, sunshine and rest‹all are attractive to the weather-challenged Mid-westerner.

Two of the many views of the coastline and the beaches in Curacao. The island is located just 44 miles from Venezuela in the Caribbean. (Photo by Lois A. Lowe)
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The one-stop flight to Curaçao from Chicago on American Airlines takes about 6 hours. The island is a lifetime away though it's located only 44 miles off the coast of Venezuela. The people are friendly‹there's no attitude and most of them speak English. Even the U.S. dollar is welcome throughout the island. There are at least three other languages spoken in this capital of the Netherlands Antilles‹Dutch, Spanish and, of course, that native tongue Papiamentu which is a cross between Spanish, Portuguese, African, Dutch and anything else that's thrown into the stew.
Our room at the Curaçao Hilton overlooked the sea, the long narrow beach that fronts it and the pools. On arrival, we were greeted with a cool rum drink that seemed to set the tone for the days we were to spend there. The Hilton is a 15-minute ride from the capital city of Willemstadt whose "Old Town" was designated as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site in 1997. The hotel runs a regular shuttle service into town.
Anyone who has traveled in Holland will recognize the Willemstadt architecture as being typically Dutch‹but with one exception. In Holland most buildings are relatively bland. In Willemstadt, everything is painted in bright colors‹greens, yellows, pinks, blues. Whether the building houses a bank or customs office, or maybe a department store, a brightly colored façade is the style of the day. It's a little like Amsterdam gone wild.
The city is situated on the south or leeward side of the 40-mile-long, 10-mile-wide of the island where some of the best deserted beaches and dive spots are found. The coral reefs that comprise the island's foundation extend into the sea which teems with brightly colored tropical fish who are as curious about you as you are about them. Looking at them through your snorkeling mask and having them peer back at you is an experience to really enjoy.
Along these beaches, several resorts are specifically designed to cater to divers. One we visited was Habitat. The flamingo-colored villas hug the seacoast. Don't know how to use diving equipment? Not to worry! PADI-certified professional diving instructors are available to teach you the fundamentals. One of the rules of diving requires that you learn your own limitations. No one is urged to take risks and the instructors will tell you how to face the realities of ocean swimming‹whether on the surface with a snorkel or deeper with scuba equipment. The thrill of diving below the surface and entering a world that most of us don't know is a really exciting experience. For more experienced divers, there's an underwater park where divers can explore more than 12 miles of coral reefs including an underwater wreck.
And then there's deep water fishing. Charters are available and fishermen bring in their catches of delicious Wahoo which they filet on the dock.
Of course, there are tamer things to do as well. You can always find somewhere to settle on one of the 38 secluded beaches for sunning. There's an 18-hole golf course at the Blue Bay Golf and Beach Resort and tennis courts in many of the island's hotels. The zoo and botanical garden attract nature lovers, and spelunkers will find something to interest them at the Hato caves which have been carved out of old coral reefs. Another interesting visit will take you to the National Park, called Shete Boka, a sea turtle sanctuary which contains Boca Tabla where breakers gouge the coral and crash into the narrow inlet with mammoth waves.
In Willemstadt, there are dozens of attractions. For example, you might want to visit the Amstel Brewery, which is the only one in the world to create beer from distilled, desalinated sea water. Called "Bright," it's available only in island restaurants and bars and isn't exported. One export that has made the name Curaçao famous is the liqueur of the same name that is available at very reasonable prices throughout the island. Tours of the brewery and the factory are available and there's a gift shop for souvenirs of your visit.
A visit to the capital should certainly include the Kura Hulanda museum, a project of 57-year-old Jakob Gelt Dekker. Fascinated by Mesopotamian art, he has collected an array of pottery, seals and rollers that would be the envy of any big city museum. Perhaps of most interest is his collection of artifacts from slave trading days.
Dutch vessels would deliver captured West African natives to the island. These people were sealed in slave ships and delivered to Curaçao for "training." Here, over a period of up to four years, the spirit of the slaves was broken and they were trained to work on plantations. They were eventually taken to slave markets in Cuba and to the United States for resale. Torture instruments used on recalcitrant slaves are on display along with leg and wrist irons used to bind them at night. There are replicas of slave quarters used for their housing.
Kura Hulanda is not only a museum. It contains a hotel, several shopping galleries and one of Curaçao's most famous bars‹Jakob's Bar. The narrow, cobblestone paths remind visitors of the narrow lanes of Dutch villages and the entire installation, expecting to expand further, welcomes guests from all over the world.
Still another site to visit in Curaçao is the Mikve Israel Emanuel Synagogue. This is the oldest Jewish congregation in the New World. It has been conducting services continuously since 1651 and the Jewish community of Willemstadt still worships there every week. The synagogue complex houses an interesting museum consisting partly of ritual objects used by the congregation and displays of artifacts of historical interest.
The Avila Hotel has, as one of its features, the Octagon Museum, the one-time home of Latin American liberator Simon Bolivar. During his months as a refugee in Curaçao, Bolivar was active in the liberation of Venezuela from Spanish colonial rule.
Our visit to Curaçao coincided with the celebration of Carnival. The main street of the city was lined with viewing stands provided by the major businesses and media outlets of the island. As crowds promenaded along the parade route waiting for the step-off of the Sunday afternoon event, the excitement mounted palpably until, finally, the marchers appeared. Dressed in brightly colored costumes and accompanied by either marching bands or by large floats providing recorded music to the viewers, they made up a three-hour procession that wound through the town to the delight of the islanders and visitors alike.
Food on Curaçao comes in virtually every shape and form. We tasted everything, especially enjoying Keshi Yena, a spectacular slave dish made from shredded chicken, olives and raisins and then encrusted in Dutch cheese, which was served at Avila. The more upscale restaurant at Fort Nassau offers Continental cuisine rivaling anything found in four-star restaurants worldwide. And the view over the city is commanding.
One particularly unique dining experience took place at Angelica's Kitchen. Here, Angelique Schoop instructs her groups of guests‹at least 10, though she can accommodate up to 30 people‹in the preparation of their meal. All of her guests are asked to wear aprons and are escorted into the kitchen where she explains the night's menu. Paired into teams and with Angelique and her two assistants in attendance, the guests prepare their dinner according to the chef's recipes. Angelique supervises‹with an iron hand if you don't chop the onion finely enough‹but when everything is ready, the guests adjourn to the dining room of the restored 1890 house and enjoy the meal they have prepared.
There's much more to do and see in Curaçao and as far as we could tell, only one major problem. Our return tickets had a date printed on them and we had to leave. And to return to the cold of the city was a real letdown after spending some time basking in the Caribbean sunshine and soaking up those warm breezes. Hopefully, we'll be back next year for another dose of sun and sea.
To learn more about this island in the sun, you can contact the Curaçao Tourist Board by calling 1-800-328-7222 or by visiting at www.Curacao-tourism.com.
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