By TODD WESSELL
Journal Travel Editor
The bright blue sky over Santa Fe and its surrounding open spaces had an especially deep hue. That made the wisps of cirrus clouds high above the enchanting landscape stand out like cotton balls or puffs of smoke.

Landscape of northern New Mexico around Santa Fe
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Santa Fe‹and for that matter the whole state of New Mexico‹is a vast geographical recipe of rugged terrain and rolling brown hills set at the foot of the mighty Rockies. Its elevation stands at nearly 7,000 ft. above sea level, 1,500 ft. higher than the Mile High City of Denver.
Santa Fe, which means holy faith in Spanish, is the old, old West. While New Mexico didn't officially become a state until 1911, Santa Fe's known history dates back to the year 1050 when it was occupied by a number of Pueblo Indian villages. Five hundred years later, the area, tabbed the "Kingdom of New Mexico" was claimed by the Spanish conquistador Coronado. In 1610, the community of Santa Fe was founded. And in 1848, following Mexico's war with the United States, New Mexico and California officially became part of the U.S.
Modern day Santa Fe is like no other major American city. Its 62,000 residents live and work in a setting of beautiful brown adobe architecture that meshes perfectly with the high dessert terrain. Few buildings are more than two stories tall. A law passed in 1958 mandated that new and rebuilt buildings must display a Pueblo or Spanish Territorial style of architecture of flat roofs.
Tabbed "The City Different" this state capital brings various cultures together in a town that has a clear identity of itself. Besides white Anglos, Santa Fe's population features a rich mix of Hispanic and Native American. It's also a haven for people who like to walk. From my vantage point at the Inn of the Anasazi in the heart of town, I had the choice of venturing out on foot in four different directions. I first focused my attention on the city's central square‹Santa Fe Plaza‹located about a block from the hotel. The charming square block is surrounded by earthy-toned one and two story buildings that are home to a variety of quaint shops. Nearby, the popular Art Market draws large crowds of bargain hunters eager to find a good buy on everything from handmade turquoise bracelets to charming necklaces. Throughout the entire area within easy walking distance are a plethora of galleries and studios featuring for sale or browsing purposes everything from clay pottery to art from Russia.
Many of the sidewalks and streets of Santa Fe are narrow. Take for instance Canyon Road a popular thoroughfare laid out on a gradual incline lined with numerous shops and galleries. The narrow road frames a climatic view of mountains which rise to the north above the roofs of adobe buildings. Many of the town's architectural secrets lie hidden from easy view by passing motorists. Hoofing it around Santa Fe is definitely the way to go. Easy walking distance from Santa Fe Plaza are wonders such as the Museum of Fine Arts, Palace of the Governors, The Georgia O'Keefe Museum, Loretto Chapel, and St. Francis Cathedral.
No visit to Santa Fe would be complete without diving into the region's fare. There are 36 restaurants that serve primarily traditional American food. Beyond that, there are 15 eateries that specialize in Asian/Pacific Rim food, 11 Italian, four Bistros, 20 Continental, four French and two Greek. Hotel accommodations are as plentiful with 28 bed & breakfasts, 16 hotels in the downtown area, eight outlying hotels, and a number of cottages, homes, condominiums and vacation rentals available.
Beyond Santa Fe's city borders lies an ocean full of activities ranging from fishing, rafting, horseback riding, skeet shooting, biking and in the winter, great skiing. Golf has taken hold within the last eight or nine years. In the mid-1990s, the Santa Fe area offered only a couple of challenging courses. Today, there are seven great layouts with more planned. I joined three others to take on Black Mesa Golf Club, a gorgeous challenge situated in the dessert about 25 miles north of Santa Fe. From the "tips", Black Mesa is plenty tough measuring 7,307 yards with a Slope rating of 141‹as tough a challenge as you'll find almost anywhere. Amazingly I shot pretty well. Must have been the thin air. And you can't beat the price at Black Mesa: $36 for 18 holes when we played in May. Not only is the golfing a dream, but so are the surroundings of breathtaking bluffs sprinkled with Pinion and Cedar trees.
On a different level, those with a inquisitive sense of history can spend a day at the magnificent Bandelier National Monument, located 48 miles northwest of Santa Fe. This area, situated in the wilderness not far from the Rio Grande River, features numerous caves inhabited by Pueblo Indians who sought protection from enemies centuries ago. A network of 70 miles of trails invites visitors to explore the park, view the caves where this ancient civilization thrived, and enjoy the setting that includes tall Juniper and Cedar trees.
Getting to Santa Fe is easy. Flights leave every day from O'Hare Airport to Albuquerque. at a round-trip cost of as low as $222 if you leave on a Wednesday and return on a Sunday.
For more information on this splendid community well worth visiting, go to the website www.santafe.org. To learn more about the Inn of the Anasazi call 800-688-8100.
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