Phat Ride

I recently traveled in penultimate style and comfort from London to Venice aboard one of the world's most celebrated trains‹the Venice Simplon Orient Express. It was known as "the train of kings" when it began service back in 1883. Early on it set the standard for the best in luxury rail travel by providing the finest in creature comforts and would reach its heyday in the 1920s and 1930s when it transported the privileged, rich and famous across Europe.

Following World War II its fortunes gradually began to decline, and service was eventually terminated in 1977. However, thanks to American businessman James Sherwood, it would return to service five years later after Sherwood purchased two former VSOE sleeping cars at a Sotheby's auction in Monte Carlo and went on to locate other vintage rail cars which were restored to their original grandeur.

Quick Trip

My VSOE experience began a few minutes after 11 a.m. on a recent Saturday morning in London's Victoria Station and would come to an abrupt halt at Santa Lucia station in Venice around 5:30 p.m. Sunday evening. Time flew by much too quickly as the Orient Express raced across portions of five countries(England, France, Switzerland, Austria, and Italy) in just over 30 hours. Along for the ride were 150 passengers, most of whom were well mannered, elegantly attired British couples ranging in age from 20 something newlyweds to 80 something grandmothers.

While checking in I noticed with a quick glance down the passenger list that I was one of a handful of Americans onboard, and further observation revealed I was one of the few aboard not wearing a suit and tie. As it turns out, I had overlooked the dress code delineated in the brochure accompanying our tickets: "You can never be overdressed on the Venice-Simplon Orient Express. As a consideration for your fellow passengers you will need to meet our minimum requirements of a suit and tie and an equivalent standard for ladies."

Pleasure Time

Soon after coming onboard I made my way to one of the dining cars and settled into a plush leather seat just as the train began to pull out of the station, gradually gathering speed as we soon left the urban sprawl of London behind and headed out across the English countryside. For the next day and a half I did little more than sit back, relax and partake of the various and sundry pleasures available on one of the world's most luxurious trains‹as it turned out, a sizable chunk of "pleasure time" revolved around indulging one's appetite. Prior to boarding I had vowed to spend as much time as possible looking out the window observing details of the passing scene. But from the outskirts of Paris to the Swiss Alps everything seemed to whiz by in a blur before I had a chance to comprehend exactly what I was seeing and where I had been.

My inability to look outside had something to do with the fact that I spent much of the time in front of a plate piled high with food. While my travels have taken me around the globe from Antarctica to Zanzibar and I have had many unusual experiences and bizarre encounters during visits to 125 countries on 7 continents, I cannot remember ever spending as much time over the course of 30 hours wining and dining, then dining and wining followed by more of same. Calculating the time I spent devouring four sumptuous meals plus one lavish afternoon tea added up to approximately 12 hours; if you include the 8 hours I spent sleeping, there went 20 out of my 30 hours aboard to food and sleep.

No Place To Eat and Run

Drinks flowed day and night, and the deluge began at lunch with the arrival of a flute of champagne followed by half a bottle of white wine. Meanwhile the menu lead off with smoked breast of duck and beetroot cress salad with a fresh raspberry vinaigrette followed by roasted filet of Atlantic halibut with saffron and baby vegetable consommé. Then came coconut and lime mousse with a lime and mint pesto before concluding with coffee from Columbia.

I am generally not a big eater and tend more toward "eating and running". But since there was nowhere to run except back to my cabin I decided to go with the program and succumb to the power of inertia. As I settled in for dinner, the French chef cooperated by concocting a multi-course meal which my waiter delivered at a snail's pace. But why hurry at a once-in-a-lifetime moment like this. Comfortably ensconced at my table, I took my sweet time mulling over an appetizer of lobster tail cooked in its shell served with stewed aubergines and hazelnut oil. I then went on to slowly savor the main course, a succulent filet of beef marinated with tarragon and mustard seeds then roasted in foamy tomato sauce. I was definitely mellowing at this point, and was more than ready to take my time contemplating an iced pistachio and kirsch meringue accompanied by almond milk and sugared violets. While these were the highlights of dinner, I don't mean to overlook the steamed baby vegetables, roast potatoes, fine cheeses and bitter chocolate and banana dessert.

And this was only the first day, as much more food was yet to come including breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea on Sunday before arriving in Venice. Suffice it to say that I departed the train well sated and barely able to see my toes.

If You Go...

For reservations and information including upcoming schedules for the remainder of 2004 on the Venice-Simplon Orient Express contact the website at www.Orient-express.com or call Orient Express Trains & Cruises at 800-524-2420 I flew American Airlines round-trip from JFK to London's Heathrow Airport. Other airlines with several flights daily from New York to London include British Airways and Virgin Atlantic. Check websites including Orbitz.com, Expedia.com and Cheaptickets.com for the best airfare. From Heathrow Airport it takes just 15 minutes to go to via the Heathrow Express to Paddington Station from where it is a short taxi or tube ride to Victoria Station.

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